Removing a Rem. Barrel

44-40, Nicely done work plan. Would you elaborate on this, "Use the recoil lug cutout and the 5/16" bolt through the bottom of the 700 action clamp up the action tight."?
I don't understand this step of your work plan. That is, the 5/16" bolt insertion step.
I can't speak to what it went through before I got it, but it was painted with enamel paint almost as soon as I got it and has been painted numerous times over the years. Hopefully it's not rusted in the threads. I'll start scratching the barrel,recoil lug and action connections with a razor blade to cut the paint and start soaking it with Kroil or PB Blaster asap and maybe put it in the sun to do some minor expansion/contraction since it's been kept in AC all of the time that I've owned. Ive got an old Weller soldering gun if i need more within reason.Thanks alot all, Paul aka. scpaul
 
44-40, Nicely done work plan. Would you elaborate on this, "Use the recoil lug cutout and the 5/16" bolt through the bottom of the 700 action clamp up the action tight."?
I don't understand this step of your work plan. That is, the 5/16" bolt insertion step.
The action wrench for Remington 700 has a cut out that fits the recoil lug fits into and a hole drilled into the fixture to fit a bolt hole of the front action screw. And 2 bolts to bolt and tork the halves of the action wrench together. This lug cutout and front screw installation remove the recoil lug with the reciever, and help keep it from slipping.
There is also a recoil lug fixture for holding the recoil lug in place when you tork down tbe new barrel...don't want the recoil lug sticking out the top or left or right...
 
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Did one recently. Used savage action wrench that goes on receiver. Tried a vice but barrel kept slipping. Got a big pipe wrench and my son on the action wrench and it popped off.
 
The action wrench for Remington 700 has a cut out that fits the recoil lug fits into and a hole drilled into the fixture to fit a bolt hole of the front action screw. And 2 bolts to bolt and tork the halves of the action wrench together. This lug cutout and front screw installation remove the recoil lug with the reciever, and help keep it from slipping.
There is also a recoil lug fixture for holding the recoil lug in place when you tork down tbe new barrel...don't want the recoil lug sticking out the top or left or right...
Thank you Sir for this elaboration. Super write up!
 
I found that using leather strips and resin have worked the best for barrel installs and removals. You still need some muscle and grit though!
 
The action wrench for Remington 700 has a cut out that fits the recoil lug fits into and a hole drilled into the fixture to fit a bolt hole of the front action screw. And 2 bolts to bolt and tork the halves of the action wrench together. This lug cutout and front screw installation remove the recoil lug with the reciever, and help keep it from slipping.
There is also a recoil lug fixture for holding the recoil lug in place when you tork down tbe new barrel...don't want the recoil lug sticking out the top or left or right...
You didn't explain the 5/16 bolt? Are you drilling and tapping the action?
 
You didn't explain the 5/16 bolt? Are you drilling and tapping the action?
No, the bolt comes with the Remington Action Wrench 2 and it's 1/4 X 28 that threads into the front of the 700s action at the location of the front action screw. The Action Wrench is drilled, same side but opposite the recoil lug cutout. A 5/16" would not fit the hole in the action wrench or the action. My mistake for saying 5/16". If ya loose it a quality 1/4 X28 cap screw will work.
 
The Brownells action wrench is what I use too. This might help explain how it works. The 700 front action screw hole indexes the action in the wrench head. Then it has a recess milled to hold a parallel side recoil lug. Doesn't work worth a crap for tapered recoil lugs.
Side note. Always remove the sight base plugs screws in the top of the action or you can damage the threads. Also, if you're using a barrel vise and the barrel is so tight it's spinning inside the bushings, use some Rosin. It's fantastic for increasing the gripping and preventing slippage.


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Thanks, for the sight screws, most of my Rems. don't
use the rear most screw in the mount (old style 2 piece?) and has a set screw bottomed in it. I probably wouldn't have thought of that, atleast not to begin with.
Since this is going to be a less recoiling rifle, (6mm) can i reuse the recoil lug or should I just go ahead and replace it with a new one maybe heavier. The action will be bedded and possibly pilared too. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Oh, is that rosin like the pine rosin that they used to use in sports like pitchers?
 
The Brownells action wrench is what I use too. This might help explain how it works. The 700 front action screw hole indexes the action in the wrench head. Then it has a recess milled to hold a parallel side recoil lug. Doesn't work worth a crap for tapered recoil lugs.
Side note. Always remove the sight base plugs screws in the top of the action or you can damage the threads. Also, if you're using a barrel vise and the barrel is so tight it's spinning inside the bushings, use some Rosin. It's fantastic for increasing the gripping and preventing slippage.


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One picture is worth a thousand words...
And you can machine the bottom half of the wrench in a mill to alter it. I just make aluminum blocks for the barrel vise the exact diameter of the barrel, and slit in half in the mill. Brownells has a lot of useful items for home gunsmithing. Action truing, bolt silver brasing, taps, dies, fixtures, etc, and some useful videos. They should teach basic metal shop and basic gunsmithing in schools...we used to have high-school metal shop, where I got my intrest im machining...there was no gunsmithing or reloading class. In the home of the 2nd amendment...there should be...but too many kids to day are very immature and irresponsible. And worried about their gender and their pronouns...college kids with less maturity than a whiny screaming kindergarten brat. About as useful as a **** soaked paper bag, as General Patton would say.
 
Tony, you said that most all thread lockers break down about 140*. Does that go for the more permanent lockers like red locktite too? This is just for my info. Thanks
 
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Oh, is that rosin like the pine rosin that they used to use in sports like pitchers?
I'm not sure if it's the same. Never used the other. This is a super fine powder. Once it's compressed between the barrel and bushing it's does harden up a bit, but not sticky.
 

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