Removing a Rem 700 trigger

[glockman55]

I plan on replacing my Dads stock trigger with a Rifle Basix on his Rem 700. I was reading in the Technical Information about removing the stock trigger. It says:

Installation Tips​

Remington receivers are "staked" on the underside beneath the mounting pins, after the factory triggers
and pins have been assembled. These mounting pins are not meant to be removed. Pins must be DRIVEN
out in order to remove. DO NOT re-install these pins until they have been re-fitted to the receiver. The pins
may be chucked in a drill motor (like a drill bit) and reduced in diameter with 320 wet or dry sandpaper until
they can be easily tapped into the receiver. Do not attempt to install any replacement trigger until, and​

unless, these mounting pins have been pre-fitted to the receiver FIRST.
Anyone ever changed one before? I have worked on Savages but not a Rem. What about these pins? I haven't got the new trigger yet, I'm sure there will be more detail on if I re-use these pins or discard them.. Like I read on the same site:

1) Remove bolt from receiver and remove barreled action from stock. It's a​

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GOOD idea to take a photo of the bolt
stop return spring and safety parts BEFORE removing! Remove safety parts, bolt stop release, etc. Drive out​

factory mounting pins and discard. Remove trigger.
I am getting the LV-1 Replacement Trigger.

 

[Kevin Cram]

Replacing a Remington 700 trigger is pretty simple once you see it. Using a punch knock out the rear pin first. Becareful not to loose the spring for the bolt stop. Pull the bolt stop out. Knock out the front pin. The trigger housing should fall out of the action. Becarefull not to loose the sear spring. I've re-used the factory pins and I've used the ones supplied by RB, just make sure the pins slip through the the trigger holes freely and fit snuggly back into the action holes. Either pins should work fine.

 

[glockman55]

Thanks for the Reply Kevin..Much appreciated.

 

[whitely]

Good advice above. Two things I would do 1) take a picture of how the stock trigger looks with a digital camera. When you remove the pins, pay attention to which end is "rounded" versus the flat end. 2) Use a roll punch, inserted from the opposite side to hold the trigger group in the proper orientation, and then drive the pins in gently with light taps.

I think the front/rear trigger pins are different in length, so remember which one goes in the front vs. the rear. I never sanded them, as they went in without any issues.

 

[glockman55]

I changed out the trigger today, it went well for my first Rem. I used the replacement pins sent with the Trigger. Man those are nice, a crisp 10 oz. pull, can't wait to shoot it. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[NesikaChad]

Trigger is installed right?

Now for the test.

Cock the gun rapidly over and over about ten times. Does it ever slam fire? Safety should be off for this test. ESPECIALLY if its a repeating hunting rifle.

If not, proceed to test two:

get a leather mallet or rubber dead blow and give the cocking indicator (the little button on the back of the bolt shroud that sticks out when cocked) a nice whack (not crazy hard, but don't be a ***** either) with the safety both on and off.

Nothing should happen.

If it falls (slam fires) it can mean a number of things. You may need to increase the trigger sear engagement, add some weight, or look at how much overlap there is between the cocking piece on the bolt and the sear. It may be a combination of these or all three too. You want .05" as the bare minimum here. Get out your sharpie marker or some layout die and mark up the two surfaces. The line that scrubs away will indicate where stuff is sitting when the action is in battery.

Rifle Basic's triggers can work nice, but I've also had a hell of a time with them on occasion.

 

[bowhunthard88]

Try working the safety on and off vigorously a few times also. If the gun slam fires, increase trigger weight slowly until it doesn't happen.