remington sps varmint 308 question

wisdeerkiller

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Wisconsin
Bought a remington 700 sps varmint 308 in march. 1 in 12 twist 26'' barrel. luepold mark 4 6.5-20x50

After the break in period i was shooting .75'' groups at 100 yds. By far best rifle group i've ever shoot with any gun.

Just bought a blackhawk axiom stock and my groups have almost been cut in half to .40''.

Same bullets same everything but the stock of course. i know that the orginal stock was not free flouted but how can this cheap $170 stock cut my groups almost in half?

Not complaining here just wondering how this is makes that much of an improvement.



By the way the bullets are
Sierra 168gr bthp
Winchester brass and primers
RL 15 42grs
 
The Remington 700 SPS stock has, IMO, absolutely nothing in common with the Blackhawk Axiom. The Blackhawk Axiom stock comes to your shoulder differently than the stock commonly assigned to the Remington 700 SPS. That alone is going to make a huge difference. How the rifle meets the shoulder, how the recoil transfers through the stock to the shoulder, cheek pressure on the stock, will all make a significant difference on where the rifle prints at any distance.
Just enjoy the improvement and post those targets out a couple of hundred yards further.:cool:
 
I do believe that Remingtons synthetic stocks do leave much to be desired. That being said, I've got the same rifle in .223 and have made some really good, long shots. Re-stocking is in the plans though.
 
Bought a remington 700 sps varmint 308 in march. 1 in 12 twist 26'' barrel. luepold mark 4 6.5-20x50

After the break in period i was shooting .75'' groups at 100 yds. By far best rifle group i've ever shoot with any gun.

Just bought a blackhawk axiom stock and my groups have almost been cut in half to .40''.

Same bullets same everything but the stock of course. i know that the orginal stock was not free flouted but how can this cheap $170 stock cut my groups almost in half?

Not complaining here just wondering how this is makes that much of an improvement.



By the way the bullets are
Sierra 168gr bthp
Winchester brass and primers
RL 15 42grs
The way that stock is designed you should be completely free floated now which makes a huge difference.

As stated above though, ergonomically it's a much better designed stock and it is also much stiffer and less subject to flex since it has a built in full metal frame which is overmolded if I'm remembering correctly.
 
I do believe that Remingtons synthetic stocks do leave much to be desired. That being said, I've got the same rifle in .223 and have made some really good, long shots. Re-stocking is in the plans though.
You can help it a lot simlly by digging the barrel channel out as deep as you can and backfilling with Devcon Steel putty mixed with lead shot. You can help it further by laying steel or aluminum pieces of 1/2" angle Iron with the point of the V up in the devcon. Run the rod or angle all the way from the recoil lug forward. Be sure too that it's deep enough not to interfere with your free float.

I did the above with the factory stock on my 7mm STW and it made an absolute world of difference and of course in addition to stiffening it up tremendously the added weight from the lead shot helps as well.

That along with bedding the action and inserting steel pillars cut my 100yds groups by about two thirds. Oh I also added a cheek piece as well.

That'll do you a world of good very cheaply while you save up for a better stock.

Here's the finished product.
2254d1319028088t-longest-bobcat-ever-stwhalfcamoaug11.jpg
 
You can help it a lot simlly by digging the barrel channel out as deep as you can and backfilling with Devcon Steel putty mixed with lead shot. You can help it further by laying steel or aluminum pieces of 1/2" angle Iron with the point of the V up in the devcon. Run the rod or angle all the way from the recoil lug forward. Be sure too that it's deep enough not to interfere with your free float.

I did the above with the factory stock on my 7mm STW and it made an absolute world of difference and of course in addition to stiffening it up tremendously the added weight from the lead shot helps as well.

That along with bedding the action and inserting steel pillars cut my 100yds groups by about two thirds. Oh I also added a cheek piece as well.

That'll do you a world of good very cheaply while you save up for a better stock.

Here's the finished product.
2254d1319028088t-longest-bobcat-ever-stwhalfcamoaug11.jpg
Thanks for the tip. I've actually thought about making similar enhancements and just keeping the stock. Nice paint job. I'm on a stock painting kick right now.
 
Thanks for the tip. I've actually thought about making similar enhancements and just keeping the stock. Nice paint job. I'm on a stock painting kick right now.
One thing I left out is also cut the groove between the lug and mag well and insert another piece there the same way and another crossing it like a T up against the mag well.

It won't make it into an H-S, Mc, or Manners but it will really solidify what you have and make it very workable.

You can do all of the hollowing out with a simple router if you know anyone with wood working tools or possibly get someone with a cabinet shop in your area to do it. It literally only takes a bout 1 minute to do all of the channeling with a 1/2" router tipping bit like this one; or 1/2" dovetail bit like this one.

Here's my latest makeover. When you get your's done resurrect my "Summer Makeover Time " thread and put it in there. We all need some good "gun porn" in the off season.

10698d1341374417t-summer-makeover-time-warning-gun-porn-img_0253.jpg


One thing I have learned is always use your lightest color for the base coat and layer the darker colors on it if you want the most effective Camo. This is what I mean by "effective camo" I'm standing about 10 yards from the rifle and it's somewhere between me and the truck.

10697d1341374417t-summer-makeover-time-warning-gun-porn-img_0251.jpg
 
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