Remington 700 replacement bolt

Elk Dreamer

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Joined
Mar 28, 2021
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24
Location
Michigan
I have an H.S. Precision rifle that was a 7mm Rem Mag and I had it rebarreled to a 300 Win Mag a few years ago. The bolt has a sako extractor and it wasn't working all the time so I sent the bolt back to H.S. to have a new extractor installed. I am not sure if I informed them the rifle was changed to a 300. Problem is extractor isn't working all the time I was thinking I might have a new aftermarket bolt installed on my rifle ? Thoughts please and thank you !
 
Bolt face dimensions for both are identical.
Apart from the extractor not working all the time, there should be no issue with it fitting the new barrel.
Have you cleaned the extractor pivot point at all since getting the rifle?

Cheers.
 
H.S. replaced the sako extractor two years ago I would estimate I have less than 100 rounds through the rifle since they changed it.
 
The cartridge is the same from the perspective of the bolt ...both are mag BF belted cases.
See what comes from HS reworking the extractor before buying a new bolt.
Thanks for the response Wolf...they replaced the extractor two years ago and I have less than 100 rounds through the rifle and it has failed to extract at least 5 times and once while hunting that almost cost me a buck.
 
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Follow up question should I just send the bolt out and have an m-16 extractor installed? If so where ?
I think the mini-m16 has one of the better structures in terms of safety. I would consider that. PTG as garbage as they are, use to be one of the better options. Now I think they only do the Lawton. Best to check the website.

To be honest, I'm out of the loop so I'm not not sure if the Lawton would be better from a structural stand point then a mini-m16.
 
Personally, I would have the bolt refurbished, new springs, pins etc. It is very rare for a Sako extractor to fail, however, springs can and do go bad.
It could also be full of gunk. A good spray with brake/carby cleaner should rinse out any gunk, then blow it out with compressed air, re-oil and test.
The only way a Sako extractor can fail if it is binding and not slipping down over the rim of the brass, it then 'jumps' the rim as it were.
If it turns out to be faulty and you want to change bolts, I use PT&G and order what extractor I want, which is the Sako style.
You can also get M16 style or Lawton.

Cheers.
 
H.S. replaced the sako extractor two years ago I would estimate I have less than 100 rounds through the rifle since they changed it.
That is messed up and all they need to do is fix it. Nothing else matters for the bolt face.
 
I've an older 700 bolt that I had to have a m16 put in to the bolt...65284 rifle...after install everything worked well..other than a 'tinging' noise with ejection....started having problems a while back..cases weren't making it out of action..extracted well then just fell off front of bolt back into the action......went by GS and we went thru it all.....pulled the firing pin..pulled the ejector spring..replaced with new spring & tested...same thing happened....more thought....pulled the extractor....had a HUGE build up of garbage inside..what it was no idea..how could carbon build there??? Scraped it clean..back together it held the brass better but still fails to eject....videoed the ejection..brass goes UP on ejection..straight into the bottom of the new 30mm scope...so I did an inspection on old scope and yep...hit there too.....std factory rem bolts eject straight out the side..not up..
We are debating drilling another ejector spring hole to push the brass more from the top and sideways....
Kind of like CA double spring idea...but use only top spring...and maybe modify the extractor face to release from the top of extractor faster to also aid in sideways ejection.......lots of money in this old bolt....fluted..and skeletonized..m16 extractor.....
Expensive to replace.....but does not work well under a scope....
 
Your bolt cut for the Sako can not be re-cut for M16. Too much 'meat' already removed in the wrong place. I would remove the Sako and inspect for fouling, clean it good. Before I put it back together I'd buy a new 'kit' (extractor & spring) made by a different company. I know, you don't know who made the one that won't work. So, order from Brownells if they still carry 'um. It just may be the manufacture of the extractor that HS is using. If you end up ordering a new bolt, have the extractor cut made for the Mini M16. That will help with the empty being ejected out the 'window', instead of into the scope. A M16 can be altered to give the same effect, out the 'window', not into the bottom/side of the scope.
 
Your bolt cut for the Sako can not be re-cut for M16. Too much 'meat' already removed in the wrong place. I would remove the Sako and inspect for fouling, clean it good. Before I put it back together I'd buy a new 'kit' (extractor & spring) made by a different company. I know, you don't know who made the one that won't work. So, order from Brownells if they still carry 'um. It just may be the manufacture of the extractor that HS is using. If you end up ordering a new bolt, have the extractor cut made for the Mini M16. That will help with the empty being ejected out the 'window', instead of into the scope. A M16 can be altered to give the same effect, out the 'window', not into the bottom/side of the scope.
Thank you for your reply shortgrass
 
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