Remington 700 action: best ways to smooth bolt cycling?

[L.Sherm]

I've ran both cerakote always wears off nitride doesn't thats why my response.

Well nitride will start getting some wear but it does take along time.

 

[jrock]

Nitride is actually cheaper also especially if you do it in a batch

Who is your guy? A few suppliers I've asked say $100 per bolt.

I Cerekoted a bolt I failed to measure before I did. The clearance wasn't enough and the coating was a bit thicker. I used some 1000 grit wet dry sand paper to buff it down. That helped a lot. Then I used graphite to help the rest of the way. It won't close all the way when held vertical but it only takes a small touch to get it to go the rest of the way.

 

[L.Sherm]

H@ M metal Processing in Ohio

 

[mnshortdraw]

The only time I've had issues with Cerakote was when it was applied too thick or when they used too course of media to blast it with. Return to your coating shop for another try.

 

[zr600]

So was your bolt smoother before cerakote? I had my 7mag stainless action cerakoted didn't think he would do the bolt head and inside of action. But he did. Anyways the action and bolt had good smooth feel to it bare, but after cerakote it doesn't feel that great. What could I do to help with this?

 

[mnshortdraw]

So was your bolt smoother before cerakote? I had my 7mag stainless action cerakoted didn't think he would do the bolt head and inside of action. But he did. Anyways the action and bolt had good smooth feel to it bare, but after cerakote it doesn't feel that great. What could I do to help with this?

Cycle the bolt about 5000 times, it'll break in.

 

[WanderingGoatie]

Cycle that puppy smooth like shortdraw said. Dry fire like crazy and you'll smooth up the action and become a better trigger puller. Bonus it's free! Win win win

I duracoated my first rifle and made some mistakes on the raceways and on the bolt itself. I've gotten better at applying but they're always even better after a few weeks of regular dry fire.

 

[tobnpr]

Cerakote incorrectly applied can also result in "dry spray"- which gives it a rough, sandpapery-like texture.
When correctly applied it's slick- especially the Elite line which requires very fine filtering prior to spray.

 

[416Taylor]

I feel your pain. After doing a bunch of these over the past 25+ years I have come to it being several issues. if the bolt is in any way grabby or catchy you need to fix that before coating. I spend hours ( less with experience because you know where to look) easing the edges of the bolt travel. This is inside of the action. I use a dremel ( I know I will hear about that from some) with fine cratex rubber tips. I work from the rear bridge (most likely place for problems) and work forward. If you look at your bolt for wear and scratch patterns it will tell you where the problem areas are. In order to have a smooth bolt throw you don't need to remove a great amount of material. Really if you have one surface smooth it will greatly reduce the drag. If they are already finished, as previously mentioned. Wet sand with fine paper. I like to bake at a higher temp and longer time as it seems to make the finish harder and less grabby. Just my thoughts for now.