Remington 5R advice

WildRose said:
What kind of break in cleaning regime are you doing? Did you bed it before you started?
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I was just thinking to myself, if he can't seem to get it under MOA, I would bed the action and lug, and make sure the barrel is free-floating, and make sure the bolt handle isn't touching the stock anywhere.

Also, make sure to check those action screws and that they're at 65 inch-pounds.
 
IMO,.. several things, "may" be going on,.. Like stated above, 1) try a different Powder/ Bullet combo. 2) If, the HS stock has an Aluminum bedding Accublock in it, it is already semi-pillar bedded but, might NOT, fit your action perfectly level or possibly, side to side "binding" and you may want to buy some of Ernie the Gunsmith's "pillar rings" and re-bed it with good clearance but supported by the "Rings",.. go online to see his "process" I just bedded my HS stock a .22-250 Rem Sporter and it shoot's SUB 1/2 MOA. Also check to make sure the Bbl. Shank area, is bedded about, 1.5 inches or so, to support that heavy Bbl. and check forearm area "free float" for, bbl "clearance" 3) Try cleaning the bore with some Barnes CR-10 to get the copper out, THEN put a tight fitting Patch, over, a Bronze brush and SLATHER ON some JB's Bore Cleaner to "Polish" your Throat/ Rifling land area, 20-25 strokes, then clean to remove the JB's (my Factory Tikka, T3, SS Lite, .270 WSM, shoots 1/2 -3/4 MOA, I used this cleaning process when rifle was New. Take it one step at, a time and Good Luck ! I was a Gunsmith for 23 years and bedded a bunch of accurate, rifles.
Hope this helps. PS; don't forget, to "prop up" ( support) the Barrel in front of forearm to keep the barrel from "sagging" while, Compound is drying !
 
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I didn't read through everyone's posts, but give that bore a good cleaning while using a bore guide before you shoot more.
Do a seating depth test with best powder charge.
But I'm betting it's one of two things: are you capable of shooting an unbraked 300wm with 215 pills sub Moa? I'm not is why I ask.
2. Your barrel isn't up to the 5r standards which is unfortunate
 
Canhunter35 said:
I didn't read through everyone's posts, but give that bore a good cleaning while using a bore guide before you shoot more.
Do a seating depth test with best powder charge.
But I'm betting it's one of two things: are you capable of shooting an unbraked 300wm with 215 pills sub Moa? I'm not is why I ask.
2. Your barrel isn't up to the 5r standards which is unfortunate
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Doubt #2 is the issue... Most likely needs bedding, and finish breaking in. Or a different powder or bullet combo. Probably just needs more load development.
 
MudRunner2005 said:
Doubt #2 is the issue... Most likely needs bedding, and finish breaking in. Or a different powder or bullet combo. Probably just needs more load development.
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Come on, a good 5r barrel shouldn't need the 'right' bullet/powder combo. With 215s and h1000 it should be a matter of a simple load work up to tune the load to the harmonics. Good barrels aren't that fussy
 
Canhunter35 said:
Come on, a good 5r barrel shouldn't need the 'right' bullet/powder combo. With 215s and h1000 it should be a matter of a simple load work up to tune the load to the harmonics. Good barrels aren't that fussy
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I've had custom rifles that were picky as hell about bullets and powders. What makes you think a factory rifle can't be?

Also, not sure how much experience the OP has with reloading, rifles, or the .300WM specifically, but we must take that into account... He might be fairly new to this, and might still be folling into the learning curve? Not saying that's the case, as he never mentioned his experience level, just pointing that out as a possibility.
 
MudRunner2005 said:
I've had custom rifles that were picky as hell about bullets and powders. What makes you think a factory rifle can't be?

Also, not sure how much experience the OP has with reloading, rifles, or the .300WM specifically, but we must take that into account... He might be fairly new to this, and might still be folling into the learning curve? Not saying that's the case, as he never mentioned his experience level, just pointing that out as a possibility.
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I agree which is why I posted two options, one which was shooter error. It could also be a possibility that it's poor shooting gun... just pointing that out as a possibility.

I'm sure there are sub Moa loads for that gun but with his chosen components sub Moa should be achievable
 
I found with new brass & 208 ELDM, AR2217 worked well (H4831/H1000) with CCI LR primers not magnum primers. I found ES dropped to single figures with std primers the preferred load was 2810fps.
Am now running a slower powder AR2225 (retumbo/reloader25) on formed brass and getting 2940fps grouping under 1/2"
 
Ok to answer a few questions. I'm pretty well versed with handloading the .300 Win mag. Definitely not as good as some of the guys On here. My go to rifle for years has been a ruger M77 in .300 Win. I have a load for that rifle with 215 Bergers that shoots just a hair over .5 MOA on average. I spent a ton of money learning how to handload with that rifle. Id consider myself a fairly experienced shooter.

I didn't install a break on this thing. Though I'm not opposed to the idea. I did bed the recoil lug and put on a timney trigger before ever shooting it. I figure I'll play with it a bit more maybe see if the barrel calms down before I do anything drastic. Next step I'm thinking is a full bed job and a brake if I can't get it to work.
 
That's good to know. I wasn't trying to insinuate anything earlier, I was just tossing that out there as a possibility, as with the fairly newer members, you never really know the extent of their reloading skills and abilities.

Also, like I mentioned, check that bolt handle and make sure it's not hitting the stock in any way when its closed. This seems like nothing, but it can actually cause accuracy inconstancies.

I would also try a different powder, maybe a different primer. I've always had great luck with the magnum cartridges with Federal 215M primers. Also, check your brass to make sure it's consistent.
 
Retumbo in the US is not called Retumbo 25. It's called Retumbo. Not sure if yall get the same powder we do, or something different? And it is slower than Reloader 25 by 6 slots, and is much closer to Alliant Reloader 33 (RL-33/RE-33). It's slower than H1000 and 7977, and sits just above IMR's new magnum enduron powder "8133".

That burn rate chart I linked is straight from Hodgdon's website...So, I'd trust it over Google.
 
MudRunner2005 said:
Retumbo in the US is not called Retumbo 25. It's called Retumbo. Not sure if yall get the same powder we do, or something different? And it is slower than Reloader 25 by 6 slots, and is much closer to Alliant Reloader 33 (RL-33/RE-33). It's slower than H1000 and 7977, and sits just above IMR's new magnum enduron powder "8133".

That burn rate chart I linked is straight from Hodgdon's website...So, I'd trust it over Google.
Click to expand...
Fair enough I run on numbers and 99.6 vs 101.2% means more than positions to me
Also you do realise that Hodgdon don't make their powders
This table supplied by ADI shows the ADI powders made by them in Australia and the ADI product name used in Australia and New Zealand, and the Hodgdon label for these powders in the US. (Source ADI).

http://revivaler.com/wp-content/upl...-and-ADI-The-Australian-Connection-10-ADI.jpg
 
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