I bought a remage barrel from a gunsmith. He converted a rem 700 30/06 barrel to 308 win and threaded it for a remage. He cut the threads to spec. I think it was just a fun project for him to see if he could do it. I didn't pay much for the barrel so if it goes in the scrap pile, no big deal. Its just a fun project for me as well. Not allot invested. I was going to give the rifle to my nephew. He did not have a barrel nut so I ordered one off of the internet. The barrel screws into the action perfectly but the barrel nut will not thread onto the barrel. I contacted the company that I bought the barrel nut from and explained it to them. They said that basically they only guarantee their barrel nuts work on their barrels because of the tolerances that they cut them to and that I can just send it back to them and they will give me a refund. Thats no biggie and I certainly appreciate their dedication towards the most accurate systems they can produce. Is this common in that you have to buy the barrel nut from the company that cut the threads on the barrel to make sure they work? I have done a couple in the past and always bought the nut when I bought the barrel. I don't want to have to buy a whole bunch of barrel nuts trying to find one that works and sending the rest back. Do savage owners go thru this? I had a savage rebarreled once and I don't remember having to buy a new barrel nut for it. Seemed like they just reused the one that came with it,
Remage question
- Thread starter JimFromTN
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Basically, each company has clearances on major and minor threads. I'm betting your smith used a slightly different one when he cut your threads. Take a few measurements and figure out where the difference is.
Here's a general explanation:
Here's a general explanation:
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
Does the nut thread on to the barrel you took off? Could be the smith did not knock off the thread "tops". Does the nut start at all?
A Sharpie test for where the interference is may reveal it is just the crests and you may be able to take them down by hand.
A Sharpie test for where the interference is may reveal it is just the crests and you may be able to take them down by hand.
Thread fitment tolerances as mentioned.
Smith could pick up the threads in your nut and open them up a bit to fit.
I hope that .06 barrel had a long full diameter breech. I don't know how much that barrel needed to be set back- but it was a substantial. If the chamber ends up partially in the taper- especially on a sporter contour hunting barrel it can be dangerous.
Smith could pick up the threads in your nut and open them up a bit to fit.
I hope that .06 barrel had a long full diameter breech. I don't know how much that barrel needed to be set back- but it was a substantial. If the chamber ends up partially in the taper- especially on a sporter contour hunting barrel it can be dangerous.
The barrel nut will not thread onto the original barrel either. On both barrels, it just starts to thread on before it stops. As for the chamber ending up partially in the taper, the barrel starts to taper at about at the mouth of the cartridge. That being said, the original barrel was about the same if not a little more so, so I don't know if that is an issue or not.
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
Double check the threads per inch on the nut. Is it possible they sent you a Savage nut with 20 tpi instead of 16?
I thought the same thing since they sold both and I checked it with a thread pitch gauge and it looked right. Just to make sure I wasn't seeing things I also checked to make sure it was not 20 tpi and it wasn't.
Of course, if I get this thing together, you all got me paranoid about the chamber being to deep into the barrel that I am going to strap it to a bench and tie a really long string to it and hide behind a building.
