Rebarrel, remage, headspace, something else issue

Jpron

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I am rebarreling a 700 for my dad. Going to a 6.5 prc. I take out the ejector pin and firing pin. Use go-no go gauges. Have everything set perfect. Fire a round or two doesn’t matter factory ammo or reload and cannot get the bolt to pull the casing out of chamber. I’ll then drop in the no go and bolt closes. There’s maybe 10 rounds down the barrel in total. I have another barrel in the same caliber from the same company on a tikka action, it doesn’t have the ring in the chamber. I didn’t look for this ring before installed the barrel the first time. Could it be possible this happened after 10 rounds? I’d rather not mention company names, not here to bash anyone. Just looking for explanations. Thanks
 

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Roughrice

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I doubt it. It was probably there before. Shouldn't be. It needs to come out if it marks the brass as shown.
Your headspace still isn't quite right. Need to bring it in a tad more. No-go should never close. Make sure your recoil lug is not warped or has a bur or nick. They can give false torque reading and actually loosen up after firing.
 

Jpron

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I doubt it. It was probably there before. Shouldn't be. It needs to come out if it marks the brass as shown.
Your headspace still isn't quite right. Need to bring it in a tad more. No-go should never close.
The no go doesn’t close until after I fire a round. I torque the nut to 60 lbs
 

Roughrice

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That shouldn't happen. Something is not right yet. It needs to be headspaced tighter. Maybe try to run it in a bit until the go-guage barely closes with some "feel" to it.
 

Roughrice

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When I use brass... I break down a live round and use it as a go and recheck several times with a piece of frog tape on the case head as a no-go. I've used beer can cutout before as no-go spacer and works great but I keep losing them. LOL
 

Chamberman

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Looks like whoever chambered it drug a chip or there was a burr on one of the reamer flutes. This can be pretty tough to get rid of without taking the chamber out of spec- depending on how deep it is................

Just remember that there is typically only 4 thou difference between the go & no go gauge.

A single piece of scotch tape on the go gauge head will add 2 thou to turn it into a no go gauge.

Like Roughrice said run it up until there is "feel" on the go gauge- then snug it up.

Depending on the breech thread job there may be a little "stretch/ slack".......
 

Hunt_4life

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manitoba
Will it eject a piece of brass if you use it as a go gauge? I have never bothered to take out the ejector or the extractor when head-spacing barrels so maybe try redoing it with the ejector and extractor installed. I would also contact the company that you got the barrel from to get a replacement. Because if it the company the I think it is they have amazing customer service. I’m sure they would repair or replace it.
 

Hunt_4life

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And another note I would always clamp the action in a benchvise and not use a barrelvise because when you torque the nut you headspace will change because the action rotates with the nut.
 

Roughrice

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He had problems with factory ammo as well. That all but eliminates sizing die problem.
Just push case out from muzzle end with cleaning rod but shouldn’t be very tight and most times will fall out.
That ring may make it more snug.
I’d do what Hunt4life said and contact the barrel maker. That ring should not be there.
 

SteveBurton

Formerly 'Jackmonkey'
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Dec 13, 2012
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Mesa, AZ
What they discovered was a reamer that was slightly larger in diameter resolved issues of heavy bolt lift. Several people have ordered a larger reamer and corrected the issue themselves. The thread is worth the read. If this is a brand new barrel I would send it back.
 

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