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Hunting
Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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<blockquote data-quote="DSheetz" data-source="post: 2285736" data-attributes="member: 91783"><p>When it comes to traps not all of them are created equal . If you can look at them and handle them before you buy any do so . Some of the things that I look at are . is the frame wide and thick enough that it won't bend easily ? If I put it on my knee and set it does the frame flex if it does it won't stand up to a big western mountain coyote . Are the ends of the jaws extending through the frame far enough that they won't easily pull out of the frame ? Are the spring levers long enough for me to set them with gloves on but not so long that they will have a hard time breaking through some frosty or crusted dirt ? Is the spring U pin long enough that it won't come out of the frame and spring levers but not too long as to catch on things as a coyote is pounding it on the ground and rocks ? What type of chain does it have on it ? I don't like the twin loop dog chain type of chain as it get caught up and filled with grass and roots then binds up not flexing . I also don't like the twisted link chains as they will twist together and bind up as well . For me I use 18 " of #3 straight link chain with a swivel at the stake end and put 3 links of 3/16 " chain that I have shaped so I can put 1/2" rebar stakes through . Then half way to the trap I put another swivel in the chain and when the trap is setting with the dog away from me the chain is fastened to the trap frame through the hole in the frame with a J rivet on the right hand side . That way setting the trap is done the same with the dog to the outside of the trap bed every time and the dog won't hit the animals foot when the trap fires . I like my chain at the end of the frame better then in the middle of the frame . If it's in the middle of the frame it makes it harder to get the trap not to rock when bedding it . Plus if it's in the middle of the frame and one of your springs gets weak the animal can pull out easier . We did a test on this one time we took the same trap that the chain was in a d ring set up on the frame put it on a coyotes front foot and pulled it off of the foot . we then put the chain in the end hole of the frame on the same trap put it back on the coyotes foot and the same guy pulled it off of the coyotes foot . It held better with the chain at the end of the trap frame as when the foot slipped to the side of the jaws with the chain at the end of the frame the spring lever rode up higher on the jaws and caused a wedging action tightening the jaws more . All of my chain is welded link chain so it doesn't open up . The trap bed is dug and the stakes driven and the chain put on the stakes at the end of the bed towards the backing of the set so they won't get caught in the traps jaws keeping it from closing properly then covered with dirt .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DSheetz, post: 2285736, member: 91783"] When it comes to traps not all of them are created equal . If you can look at them and handle them before you buy any do so . Some of the things that I look at are . is the frame wide and thick enough that it won't bend easily ? If I put it on my knee and set it does the frame flex if it does it won't stand up to a big western mountain coyote . Are the ends of the jaws extending through the frame far enough that they won't easily pull out of the frame ? Are the spring levers long enough for me to set them with gloves on but not so long that they will have a hard time breaking through some frosty or crusted dirt ? Is the spring U pin long enough that it won't come out of the frame and spring levers but not too long as to catch on things as a coyote is pounding it on the ground and rocks ? What type of chain does it have on it ? I don't like the twin loop dog chain type of chain as it get caught up and filled with grass and roots then binds up not flexing . I also don't like the twisted link chains as they will twist together and bind up as well . For me I use 18 " of #3 straight link chain with a swivel at the stake end and put 3 links of 3/16 " chain that I have shaped so I can put 1/2" rebar stakes through . Then half way to the trap I put another swivel in the chain and when the trap is setting with the dog away from me the chain is fastened to the trap frame through the hole in the frame with a J rivet on the right hand side . That way setting the trap is done the same with the dog to the outside of the trap bed every time and the dog won't hit the animals foot when the trap fires . I like my chain at the end of the frame better then in the middle of the frame . If it's in the middle of the frame it makes it harder to get the trap not to rock when bedding it . Plus if it's in the middle of the frame and one of your springs gets weak the animal can pull out easier . We did a test on this one time we took the same trap that the chain was in a d ring set up on the frame put it on a coyotes front foot and pulled it off of the foot . we then put the chain in the end hole of the frame on the same trap put it back on the coyotes foot and the same guy pulled it off of the coyotes foot . It held better with the chain at the end of the trap frame as when the foot slipped to the side of the jaws with the chain at the end of the frame the spring lever rode up higher on the jaws and caused a wedging action tightening the jaws more . All of my chain is welded link chain so it doesn't open up . The trap bed is dug and the stakes driven and the chain put on the stakes at the end of the bed towards the backing of the set so they won't get caught in the traps jaws keeping it from closing properly then covered with dirt . [/QUOTE]
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Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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