r25 in 243 yote destroyer

[lowdowndirtybugger]

While I was waiting on a custom barrel .243 barrel for my sr25/lr308 pattern build a friend of mine decided he was going to beat me to the punch and bought a Remington r-25 in .243.
He topped it with a utg 4-16×44 compact scope and a sight mark mini red dot on a 45^offset.
The trigger was a typical ar trigger and I love tuning ar triggers so I took the slop out polished the sears and shortened every aspect of travel. Now it breaks at 4.12 lbs with no creep and a solid reset.
He resized 7.62x51 lake city brass to .243 and reamed out the donuts that form at the case mouth. These cases are stout enough to feed in semiautomatic and very inexpensive to procure.
He then loaded up some 55 grain noslers. And went out for a ladder test. The smallest he could print was an inch. Bummed
He didn't let this get the better of him and went out and bought some 75 grain vmax loaded ladders and walla sub 1/2 moa 5 shot pattern!!

Remington r25
20" stock 1in10
tuned trigger
utg 4-16x44 compact
Lc 7.62x51 resized to .243
39.5 grains variety
3430 fps



Now if my barrel would just get here! Lol

 

[budlight]

I've ran 308 through 243 full length dies for years. Coffee cans full from range pickups. I use a Forrester out side neck turner to get @ .272-.274 after bullet is seated. I just have not used an internal reamer.

The problem with 308 brass is the loss of case capacity. So loads have to be adjusted with less grains of powder to achieve the same pressures.

Nice groups!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[lowdowndirtybugger]

I've ran 308 through 243 full length dies for years. Coffee cans full from range pickups. I use a Forrester out side neck turner to get @ .272-.274 after bullet is seated. I just have not used an internal reamer.

The problem with 308 brass is the loss of case capacity. So loads have to be adjusted with less grains of powder to achieve the same pressures.

Nice groups!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah 40.5 seems to be about a regular node in normal .243 brass. 7.62 lake city has about 1 grain less capacity. I bet before that the node would land between 39.5 and 40.
These necks came in right at .275 from both Lyman and rcbs dies so no need to turn but donuts formed at the mouth to .280. Chamfer tool did the trick nicely.

What surprised me is a stock r25 printed such a nice pattern

 

[budlight]

I've always considered my 243 win brass to hold about a max of 48 grain. My game round is 100 gr. spbt with 46.4 Ram Shot Hunter. My Varmint round is the 80 spbt AA2700 46.1 or 46.3 of H100V both Right at 3500 fps out of my rem 700 XPS 26 inch. I played with 75 gr HP and got 3605 fps using 47 gr of AA2700.

I've put two 56 mm scopes on my AR's. 6x24 and 8x32


I moly coat these 80's and they have a good BC. They are great on burrowing critters

https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/product.cfm/sn/1515/243-dia-6mm--80-gr-SBT-Blitz


How do you tune the trigger? Are changing to lighter springs or bending the existing?

 

[lowdowndirtybugger]

I've always considered my 243 win brass to hold about a max of 48 grain. My game round is 100 gr. spbt with 46.4 Ram Shot Hunter. My Varmint round is the 80 spbt AA2700 46.1 or 46.3 of H100V both Right at 3500 fps out of my rem 700 XPS 26 inch. I played with 75 gr HP and got 3605 fps using 47 gr of AA2700.

I've put two 56 mm scopes on my AR's. 6x24 and 8x32


I moly coat these 80's and they have a good BC. They are great on burrowing critters

https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/product.cfm/sn/1515/243-dia-6mm--80-gr-SBT-Blitz


How do you tune the trigger? Are changing to lighter springs or bending the existing?

Tuning an ar trigger is easy yet takes some time. Springs can be replaced but I can usually get 4# out of a trigger without doing so.
I start by polishing the sear faces as most are full of machine marks.
then I remove the safety and handle temporarily.
The screw where the handle fastens comes up under the rear portion of the trigger bar. Some are drilled and even threaded all the way threw. Others need to be threaded while a few need drilling and threading.
I then take a set screw and run it up under the trigger bar until it trips the sear. Then I back it off just a hair. There needs to be enough engagement to hold solid. If there is not enough the edge can shear and cause issues if there is too much there will be creep.
then I mark the rear portion of the trigger bar in relation to the safety threw the hole on the receiver where the safety sits. This part is tricky and can ruin the whole deal. If you look at the safety it's self it is recessed. I remove enough metal from the rear of the trigger bar so that the mark I made is still there + a little. The key is the a little us too much. Take the safety in and out and test it as you go. If you go too far and remove to much the safety won't work and the bar is now garbage.
The next step is to hone the disconnector just enough to release the hammer. This part is tricky also.the key Is to get overlapping connections. If the connection is not over lapped there is a possibility of a misfire on release of the trigger. I usually take the disconnector down to were it's not truly releasing when the trigger is fully disengaged but where the pressure from the springs cause the release. To test you push down on the hammer and. It will click by the disconnect when you release you can feel it but it doesn't grab.
This part is important but is correctable if you go to far by. Removing a tiny amount of metal from the front if the disconnect where it contacts the trigger bar.

Clear as mud ;-p

 

[budlight]

I watch a similar YouTube video on ar-15 trigger work. But they were also adding a slight bend to the hammer spring or just buying the hammer spring.

I bought a JARD adjustable set it up for 2# 8 oz and it worked fine for a couple hundred rounds and then went into the disconnect not catching the hammer when the BCG is cycled. I adjusted it up and down to get it to catch every time. It's latest problem is double fire so fast that it almost sounds like one bang. I will never buy another adjustable. It will be drop ins around 3# so I don't have to worry about it failing on me.

 

[lowdowndirtybugger]

A couple of pics ;-)

 

[budlight]

how long is the barrel? I've got away from threaded end barrels also I have two. A mellonite 20 and a 24 match

 

[lowdowndirtybugger]

The one in the pic is a 20".
The barrel on order is a 22" match grade 216r melonited threaded barrel. It will be running with a Witt machines 4 port directional muzzle breakgun)

 

[budlight]

I looked at the $125 Witt Machined 3 piece. The idea of the outside breaking up the side blast is interesting.

I have a bunch of brakes..... some $$$ other cheap and I found this cheap AR brake to work very well. It only has two top holes and they open to the second and third port to reduce the amount of upward gas flow. It is also easy to clean.

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