Questions about Burris Eliminator 3 scope mounting

[Roughwater]

Hi,

I very recently purchased a Burris Eliminator III 4-16 rifle scope. Someone online had recommended using a 20 MOA scope mount Weaver or picaninany (spelling?) style so I ordered a one piece Warne mount for my Savage LRH 300 win mag.

The scope arrived yesterday and I installed the new warn mount and Eliminator which I had no problem doing using the included clamps and "B" shim that came with the scope but that's as far as I went with it as a couple things occurred to me after doing so.

I never previously installed anything but zero MOA mounts in the past. Prior to installing the Warne mount I didn't measure either end to see which end was the elevated end and even if I had I'm not sure if the thicker end should go toward the muzzle or the stock. However I did a search online and it was said the thicker end of the mount should be toward the stock. This didn't quite seem logical in part because Burris recommends placing the B shim at the front of the mount which I assumed to be toward the muzzle end of the mount. Doing this would seem to negate the reason for the using a 20 MOA mount in the first place assuming the raised end of the mount is oriented on the stock end of the mount? One person reviewing the Eliminator III after installing the shim ended up removing it and going without a shim as he seemed to think the very same thing, that the only thing the shim did was turn his 20 MOA mount into a zero MOA mount leaving him with very limited Elevation?

I definitely need educated on this issue.

Any advice would be extremely welcome.

Thanks

 

[scrmblr1982cj8]

I have no experience with the Eliminator, but all of the 20 MOA bases I've mounted have been with the thinner end towards the barrel.

 

[Roughwater]

scrmblr1982cj8.

Your info that the thinner end end of a 20 Moa mount goes toward the barrel seems to jive with what I have read elsewhere.

Thanks much for your input.

 

[ZSteinle]

I see no reason to put a canted base (20 moa) on the rifle when your using the eliminator III The whole point of the eleminator 3 is that you don't have to use dials and everything is done with the reticle or lighted dot I should say. just sight it in, range the target and hold on the dot. Done.

 

[Roughwater]

I'm replying to my own post. Kinda like talking to myself I guess

I did a little more research on line, actually at this website. What I found is the A shim is for a 10 Moa mount B is for a 20 and C for a 30. So I assume if you have zero MOA mount you don't need a shim?

I did use the B as I have a 20 Moa mount. I went ahead and took it to the range and sighted it in, first at 50 yrds, then at 100. I had bore sighted it first but the first shot wasn't on paper at 50 so I pulled the bolt out and looked thru the barrel and roughly centered it that way then readjusted my Elevation and windege to coincide. The second round was on paper and it seemed to adjust fine and group fine from there.
I measured the shims A and C and A measured .108 and C = .135. I assume B measures somewhere between the two. The shims have a slot in the middle meant to be secured in the one of the lands of the front mount.

Again, just looking at this from a layman's point of view is that if you bought say a 20 Moa mount with the intention of giving the rifle scope combination 20 Moa more range and you use the suggested shim you are actually bringing the mount set up right back to zero. I say this because the thicker end of the 20 Moa mount is to the rear and the shim is meant to be placed in the front of the mount, that puts you back to level again.
If this is Burris's intention maybe the math of the on-board computer works more accurately with the mount level and Flat at zero MOA? Soo, I think if you really want 20 more MOA you would go without a shim? But would that mess up the math of the computer?

The range I shot at only goes out to 100 yrds so I will have to see if my set up using the 20 MOA Warne mount and "B" shim will get me the range I need. If any of you feel my assumptions about this seem incorrect I would welcome you to correct me.

Thanks

 

[Roughwater]

I see no reason to put a canted base (20 moa) on the rifle when your using the eliminator III The whole point of the eleminator 3 is that you don't have to use dials and everything is done with the reticle or lighted dot I should say. just sight it in, range the target and hold on the dot. Done.

ZSteinle,

Thank you! I think you're exactly right. Had I know that, before purchasing the Eliminator I would have just bought a zero MOA mount to start with. I was slowly figuring that out with the process of adding the shim to the mount. That's probably something Burris should have Burris should have mentioned. They have the shims with the accessory kit that comes with the scope but no explanation on why or how to use them.

 

[ZSteinle]

I would just get it sighted in and roll. 20 moa I don't think is going to make any difference to the computer. I think if my math is right 20 MOA is equivilant to 0.33 degree. So with an 800 yard shot that you range with your burris on a 20 moa base the computer would calculate it to be 799.2. Which is tighter than the rangefinders + or - 1 yard accuracy.

 

[Roughwater]

I would just get it sighted in and roll. 20 moa I don't think is going to make any difference to the computer. I think if my math is right 20 MOA is equivilant to 0.33 degree. So with an 800 yard shot that you range with your burris on a 20 moa base the computer would calculate it to be 799.2. Which is tighter than the rangefinders + or - 1 yard accuracy.

I again agree with ya. Had I to do it over again I would just roll with the 20. But it's done already. If it turns out I have issues with lack of vertical elevation I'll chuck the shim.

I did at read of at least one person's comments to the fact that a small cant can fowl up the calculations of the scope and someone even commented that they use a mount with a level bubble built in. This has nothing to do however with the elevation but I bought the long one piece rail so might consider gluing a small level bubble on it if I have issues.