Question on tuning a load

[Warbird2006]

I'm pretty new at this long range stuff but really enjoy it so far, besides the cost of getting started lol. Anyways I have been reloading for about 3 years now, lots of pistol rounds as I shoot IDPA and a little USPSA. Well my question is when I load my rifle rounds I usually go the middle of the road for the simple idea that my barrels will last longer and I don't want to blow anything up with to much. My question is am I missing out on accuracy because of my wussy loads? If so how do I truly tune a load for each rifle. TIA

You are not missing on anything, I shoot high power silhouettes and we shoot close to 400 rounds during a weekend. I load up reduced loads in my 6.5x47 Lapua and 260 Rem. I developed these loads, saving powder, barrels and my shoulder.

 

[slv hunter]

I wonder if bullet is jammed, making pressures high. Check to see by using OAL gauge or marking bullet method.

 

[Alibiiv]

And youre getting shiny spots on ur brass?

From what you' written it looks like you have a rifle problem, not an ammunition problem. I'd be talking to the manufacturer and sending them photos. How long has this been happening? When did it start? Could you have some residual powder in the chamber?

 

[Canhunter35]

From what you' written it looks like you have a rifle problem, not an ammunition problem. I'd be talking to the manufacturer and sending them photos. How long has this been happening? When did it start? Could you have some residual powder in the chamber?

I agree, there's something wrong with that rifle. No way factory ammo should be that over pressured

 

[L.Sherm]

I had a problem once with 221 fireball brass being really short to the datum line screwing up headspace on a 20VT one time normally I just backed of my load about .75 and all was good on this particular brass I had to back off 4 grains otherwise problems untill it was shot once. I would measure a fired case and then get a measurement off of a factory round almost looks like the case is slamming against the boltface causing the shiny spot from the plunger hole. You can buy bump gauges or if you know of a Smith nearby that has a reamer he can make you one out of a piece of old barrel

 

[Skidoo]

This rifle was brand new, this happened during the barrel break in. I have 60 rounds through it now. I did contact CA and sent them pictures they assured me all is fine and no reason to be concerned. But from what you guys have said in this thread makes me very nervous. It was about 60 degrees out when I was shooting and I wonder what it is going to do when the temps outside go up.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Since you Can't feel that ejector mark with your fingernail I wouldn't worry about it. Just keep an eye on it to see how it behaves with different ammo.

 

[Preatorian]

Those ejector marks are very serious. They are deep into the bolt face. That needs to be sent back. If you have a bore scope take a look and see what might be there. No sense saving brass like that. Probably has loose primer pockets already. My only thoughts on the excess pressure is an extremely rough throat or a very tight barrel. If you broke it in normally rough throats burn in in 50 rounds or less. But tight barrels will always be tight. Check also if your in the lands real hard on the factory load. If you are put it in a seating die and push it back till it doesn't touch. If you get those makes again stop. Hornady loads are pretty mild aside from superformance. One last thing to check I'd the bolt face itself. Use a magnifier and look at the edges of the extractor holes. Some time in machining there could be a raised edge that will swipe every time with any load. But looking at that brass it looks to be over pressure by a lot.
Shep

 

[Preatorian]

I like what 25WSM said about pushing the bullet back some and seeing if things change.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

Is bolt lift stiff or ejection difficult? Chamber a round and eject it without firing and look for land marks on the bullet.

it's the rifle accurate? Can you check vel?