Some shooters will Zero to 200 because they only shoot to 350-400 and the drop of the bullet is still in the kill zone so no elevation adjustments.
Doesn't matter what you Zero at 100, 200 with a Kestrel or any other Ballistic program. They all go off of the ZERO point and calculate drop from there. Just make sure you are using MOA or Mil the same with your scope and ballistic program.
Others have said this but I will jump on my soap box here.I zeroed my 338 RUM on saturday for 200yds. Later I got looking at my Kestrel and it said when zeroed at 200 I need to come up .300. Scroll down the ballistics and it says I should be 1.5 inches low. Now what happens when I go to shoot at say 600yds. I dial up said amount. Will I be way high because I did not zero according to my Kestrel. Or will I be just fine. I am a little confused by this or have I missed some ting along the way. To be clear I put in all needed info. Put in zero 200yds.. then transfered it to the Kestrel. My bullets are striking right under the center line in the bulls eye. I mean lerally rubbing it. The group measured .675 center to center.. I was using it with my bipod and a roll of paper towel for the rear support. So any thoughts guys and what would you do.
I think the “200y zero is an imprecise tool and should be done away with in our common vernacular. this will upset old timers for sure but what I’m about to say is where this 200y zero comes from.
1 always always always zero at 100y/100m. This removes the affect of almost all environmental impacts.
2. Point blank range is the area the bullet drops and remains in the kill/target zone. Typically being 6-8in. Now the hunter can with variable confidence shoot from
50-300y, just point and click. This is constant for most hunting calibers sans 22.
3. To extend that PBR hunters started doing 100y zero’s with a 1-1.5in high offset that was “dead on at 200y”. We have all herd that right. This extends the PBR maybe 75-100y
So, what is reality is that since the 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s bullets have changed a lot and I like to have everything precise.
The best answer in my opinion is to always do the 100y zero with an offset. The 200y has potential for environmental issues and shooter error.
The offset of 1in, 2in plugged into a ballistic calc then determine your PBR and Max PBR.
Learn to dial a scope or use your subtension lines/dots. This is where people get lazy, they don’t want to learn this half of it and these excuse is “If I have to make a quick shot I won’t have time”
Reality is at 25-125y you may not have time but that’s totally within the PBR of a 100y zero. Distances beyond that the animal has less and less awareness of you in most situations so yeah you do have time.
99 out of 100 hunters I have guided have never shot an animal beyond 150y.
So, use the ballistic calc, and determine 100y with offset that keeps your bullet in a kill zone for xxx yards and drop the whole 200y zero.
Ok I’m done lol