Question about minimum energy....recurve related

[Dan B]

I've been toying with a no name recurve for the last five months. Not sure of the draw weight...found it in an old gunshop that dad used to work at in a pile of other archery stuff. I made a 16 strand FF string and installed catwhiskers. I've got onto shooting it quite well. Using Easton 2114 XX75's, full length shafts to weaken them a little (so maybe 31-ish inches), three sheild cut 5" white feathers, right twist from an Arizona, and Bear 145gr Razorheads. Finshed weight is 505gr. It's quiet and smooth!

I finally chronied it today over the Oehler 35. It's shooting the above arrows at 182fps. I used to have a formula for calculating FPE but not sure where it went to.

The question...would you fellow stick toters feel comfortable carrying this 505gr arrow @ 182fps for whitetails?? Not worried about "keep your shots w/in XX yds"...my max is 20yds, unless you feel the max should be closer with this "load"?

 

[edge]

Way more than minimum energy at 20 yards, and I am compound only!

My only caveat, and it really should go without saying, but sharpen the broadheads!

I see shooter after shooter, shoot at a Styrofoam target, then put the arrows back in the quiver ready to hunt.
They will be the same guy that swears they made a good shot but the arrow did not go through or there was a very short blood trail!!

edge.

ALWAYS sharpen before you Hunt!!

 

[Dan B]

These are only my practice and small game arrows...have another matched set for deer hunting.

My last compound set up was over 82FPE according to the formula that was provided in an old Easton catalog. I think it was something like velocity squared times the arrow weight then divided by 450,240. By that formula the recurve is 37FPE.

 

[James Jones]

Dan B's calcuilation is right and 30lbs is plenty to get into the boiler room of a deer IF your broadhead is sharp. Not taking anything away from the Bear Razorhead , its been around for a long time and has taken tons of game up to coastal brown bears but I personaly feel that their are better head out their.
On my stick bow I shoot a Magnus Snuffer 3 blade , I think its 150grs but not 100% sure , and it works very well gives great blood trails and isint that had to sharpen.
My next recomendation would be a head from Steel Force , they come out of the pack screaming sharp and they resharpen them for free , their customer service is awsome and their four blade makes a nice hole. Also G5 makes some nice heads , I shot a few pigs with the Montec when they first came out and they worked well but I persoanly like a little heavier head and bigger cut for my single string bows

The biggest factor guys over look when hunting with bows is the broadhead sharpness , they are best if they are surgicaly sharp , I have only used a few that came out of the pack that way. so if you practicing with broadheads and I reccomend that you do makes sure that you resharpen them well or better yet replace them.

 

[sambo3006]

[ QUOTE ]
I've been toying with a no name recurve for the last five months. I made a 16 strand FF string


[/ QUOTE ]

I would be concerned about the fast flight string. Is the bow designed for it? Many newer recurves have beefed up limb tips to deal with the extra stress imposed by the minimal stretch fast flight. If it is not designed for it, you may crack a limb or have a limb tip failure. You may be aware of this already, I am just concerned for safety. Have fun with your recurve! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[oso]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I've been toying with a no name recurve for the last five months. I made a 16 strand FF string


[/ QUOTE ]

I would be concerned about the fast flight string. Is the bow designed for it? Many newer recurves have beefed up limb tips to deal with the extra stress imposed by the minimal stretch fast flight. If it is not designed for it, you may crack a limb or have a limb tip failure. You may be aware of this already, I am just concerned for safety. Have fun with your recurve! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Sambo, you would be correct! If the bow was not made for a fastflight string I would change it back to dacron.

I had a fellow archer that thought that he could get away with it.

The riser cracked just at the inside the web of his hand and when he let the arrow fly the bow went back to its original shape! It shoved that sliver of laminate right through the web of his hand from the top into the center of his hand!

Needless to say he never did it again.

I agree with JJ on this one, you really need to have a great broadhead on the business end of your arrow.

 

[telkev]

In my opinion, you have plenty of kinetic energy to a max of 30yards. Do change the string to a dacron, older recurves will not take the extra stress the fastflite is putting on it. I would try a little heavier arrow with lt wing feathers, and I would stick to a two blade broadhead, such as the original Bear(or similar). The two blade broadhead will give you a little more penetration and give you more of a chance the arrow will come through the other side, giving you more of a blood trail. You will not loose much speed with a heavier arrow, and the extra weight will only add to the kinetic energy. As my dad use to say, "there is no replacement for displacement".