Question about Lapping Seekins Scope Rings

[Shooter Fred]

I recently bought a set of Seekins Precision scope rings and a rail to mount my Vortex Viper 4-16x50 FFP to my rifle. I know Seekins is a top notch company that produces very exacting tolerances on their rings, so I was wondering...should I lap their rings or are they pretty much good to go from factory?

If anyone has experience with their rings please let me know. I am excited to mount this scope to my 300 RUM.

Thanks!

-Fred

 

[Shooter Fred]

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Fred

 

[kcebcj]

I recently bought a set of Seekins Precision scope rings and a rail to mount my Vortex Viper 4-16x50 FFP to my rifle. I know Seekins is a top notch company that produces very exacting tolerances on their rings, so I was wondering...should I lap their rings or are they pretty much good to go from factory?

If anyone has experience with their rings please let me know. I am excited to mount this scope to my 300 RUM.

Thanks!

-Fred

Here's what I know from personal experience using Seekins rings and a Near rail. The most important thing is to verify that the top of your receiver is true so that the rail is not tweaked when torque down. If the receiver is not true the rail should be bedded to the receiver.

Once the rail is installed properly you can check the rings for alignment but they should be perfect and not need to be lapped as Seekins and Near Mfg. products are as good as it gets.

 

[Willys46]

I would contact glen, but I believe that he has stated they do not need to be lapped.

 

[Kevin Cram]

I don't care whose rings they are Seekins, BAT or others I always check them with a light lap and see how they are. Some fine lapping compound and about 3-5 strokes with the lapping bar will show you real quick how much contact you'll have. Normally with Seekins I'll get 80% plus contact and they'll be good to go but you never know, it doesn't hurt to double check.

 

[Shooter Fred]

I don't care whose rings they are Seekins, BAT or others I always check them with a light lap and see how they are. Some fine lapping compound and about 3-5 strokes with the lapping bar will show you real quick how much contact you'll have. Normally with Seekins I'll get 80% plus contact and they'll be good to go but you never know, it doesn't hurt to double check.

Thanks for the info...probably a good idea!

Thanks

 

[jmden]

I've got two sets of Seekins rings.

One is a 1" set on a Seekins rail on a Rem 700 300 Rum. I used the sandpaper wrapped around the receiver and then lightly worked the rail forward and backwork over the sandpaper to about 50% 'scuffed' up, to provide a partial custom fit between the two surfaces. Clean all threads and parts and then used a Loctite Product (can't recall the name at the moment) to fill up remaining void spaces between rail and receiver and then torqued it down. This setup required quite a bit of lapping to get the rings true.

The other set is a 30mm set on a BAT HRPIC. The indicators indicated zero lapping needed.

Little difference there between the factory and custom receivers...

A word on lapping kits. Some come with the two pieces of round stock with the pointed cone shaped ends that tell you if you have gotten the rings lapped completely true to each other or not. Other kits do not some with these, from what I've seen in the past. I don't see what the point of goin down the road to lap scope rings is unless you have an accurate, precise way to determine when you have lapped the rings true to each other.

Hope this helps.

 

[Shooter Fred]

I've got two sets of Seekins rings.

One is a 1" set on a Seekins rail on a Rem 700 300 Rum. I used the sandpaper wrapped around the receiver and then lightly worked the rail forward and backwork over the sandpaper to about 50% 'scuffed' up, to provide a partial custom fit between the two surfaces. Clean all threads and parts and then used a Loctite Product (can't recall the name at the moment) to fill up remaining void spaces between rail and receiver and then torqued it down. This setup required quite a bit of lapping to get the rings true.

The other set is a 30mm set on a BAT HRPIC. The indicators indicated zero lapping needed.

Little difference there between the factory and custom receivers...

A word on lapping kits. Some come with the two pieces of round stock with the pointed cone shaped ends that tell you if you have gotten the rings lapped completely true to each other or not. Other kits do not some with these, from what I've seen in the past. I don't see what the point of goin down the road to lap scope rings is unless you have an accurate, precise way to determine when you have lapped the rings true to each other.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info...I think that Wheeler makes a lapping kit like the first one you had mentioned

From what I here, Aluminum doesn't take near the amount of effort (strokes back and forth) with the lapping bar as steel does

Anything with the Aluminum vs Steel I should be concious of?

 

[jmden]

I'm far from any expert, but I've lapped steel Leup Mark 4 rings and they definitely take more work for the same amount of metal removed, of course.

Due to the softer Al., you can overdo it, so check with the indicators often as you get closer. Pain in the butt, but you gotta do it. Don't want to lap so much that the ring gaps dissapear.

Wheeler makes the kits I have. I like the indicators. What's the point of lapping if you can't see what you are accomplishing...?

Good luck,

Jon