Proper cleaning with patches, to exit or not exit?

[remingtonman_25_06]

I cant remember where I read this, but I remember reading where when you are cleaning with patches, you should never fully exit the muzzle all the time, you should always go about 1 inch before the end of the muzzle. This is how I have been recently cleaning my barrels. However, I was just looking through the Sierra manual, and they say to always fully exit the muzzle when using patches or brushes. Which is correct? Is there any flaws or advantages to either?

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Seems like two problems with the 1" short method.

1. This could leave the most critical area of the barrel fouled. The muzzle.
2. Most serious shooters do not pull a dirty patch back through the bore. They push it once down the bore and out the muzzle, where it is removed.
3. Do you really want to be known as the guy who always comes up 1" short?

Yea, I know I said 2 problems, so you can skip whichever one you like. :> )
VH

 

[James D.]

With no experience shooting extraordinarily accurate rifles. I push the patch completely out the barrel then remove the patch/jag pull the rod out, put the jag back on with another patch and continue the process.

 

[Steve Shelp]

Rem 25-06,
Pushing the patches out through the muzzle without reversing is the way the majority of competition/serious accuracy shooters do it. Myself I will reverse it at certain times. But I am in the minority in that thinking. I've always been accused of being different though.
I think what you may have confused is when using a bore past like J-B or Flitz. Then it's almost univerally understood to always work it back and forth right up to the muzzle then push it straight out. But as far as standard cleaning patches with carbon or copper cleaning solvent on them.... push'um on out and get that crud out of there. With a bronze brush make sure you go all the way out of the muzzle then gently pull it back through to get it centered back up.
Nylon brushes are a lot easier on your crown, but I've done some testing/observing lately and they may not be the best thing since sliced bread. Jury is still out there.

Steve

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

Thanks for the help guys. With the patches, I have always went fully out the muzzle then back up and out. That counted as 1 patch to me. If you only go down the barrel and out the muzzle with a patch and then discard, would you pull the rod back slowly and do another patch, or put a patch on when the rod is at the end of the muzzle and reverse it? I am somewhat confused. There is more to cleaning barrels than about anything I have ever seen and read. Its kinda complicating to me because there is so much and so many differen't oppinions. I just want to make sure and do it right is all.

 

[Ian M]

Younq fella, here are some ideas that you might consider for maintaining your rifles. Keep at it, you are showing great interest, wish that there were a lot more your age into this sport. Would enjoy helping you anytime.

Use a bore-guide and put a rag under the front of the bore-guide to catch any solvent squeezed out in the initial pushing of the rod.
Then put solvent on a patch and stab the patch. If you hit the patch in the center it will fit tightest. Moving over a bit from center will make for easier entrance and passage.
When the patch gets out of the muzzle take it off and pull the rod straight back and out.
Repeat with another patch until the carbon reisidue or copper discoloration is no longer evident by the colors on the patches. Don't scrimp on the number of patches, you usually have to use a bunch with most factory barrels. That is why most guys make their own out of flannel, stuff they used to make diapers out of.
Maintaining rifle is NOT cheap and should not be done cheaply, as in cutting corners. Patches, solvent, brushes, grease all cost money but you MUST use the stuff religiously to ensure your rifle is working at its best.
Always use a bronze brush that has the front end looped, not cut-off. Always put four or five drops of carbon solvent on the brush and push it fully through the barrel. You can put a few more drops on it when it passes out the muzzle the first time, then pull it back through and the solvent should be evenly distributed.
Always dry your bore after use, if you are not shooting the rifle for a while leave a film of oil or rust prevent in it. Always dry your chamber with a swab (wool mop) or dry patch and clean out the lug recess with the appropriate tool and swab.
Alwyas brush any brass filings from the bolt face, extractor etc. and clean gunk from the bolt face with a toothbrush or M-16 brush. Drop a couple of drops of carbon solvent on the bolt face and brush it, then wipe with a rag.
Always lube the rear faces of your lugs and the contact location at the base of your bolt handle.
Always wipe your rifle, mounts and scope to remove accumulated dust and dirt, then wipe with a lightly oiled cloth to protect from rust.
End the job by wiping the crown, always a bunch of black stuff there.
At least once a year clean inside the bolt body, wipe the firing pin and coil spring, put a dab of lube on the spring to prevent rust. Remingtons need a tool to take the firing pin assembly out, no sweat it is cheap and quite simple to do. You might be surprised how much crap can accumulate inside a Rem. M-700 bolt.
Good luck.

 

[Tailgunner]

Quick note. It sounds like your using a "loop jag", I use a "spear point jag". With a spear point once you clear the muzzle, the patch won't "pull" back in, it falls off instead (I keep a waste basket under the muzzle to catch them).