Problem if action screw threads are touching bedding block?

[the444shooter]

There's how the tang looks when the action is bolted in the stock, and here's what the bedding looks like at the tang. I was able to "polish" (read use a hand drill *carefully*) the screw holes to where there is no contact between the screw and the block, so that's one variable taken care of.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I would re-bed that thing in a New York minute after seeing the tang area and lack of support.

 

[the444shooter]

I would re-bed that thing in a New York minute after seeing the tang area and lack of support.

What lack of support to you notice? There seems to be ample support on the sides in the tang, but nothing in the center, as if B&C only has the block touch that part. I'm trying to find an image of their bedding block to confirm, but can't. And as said previously, by Edd, the tang shouldn't be in contact with anything?

 

[Edd]

... And as said previously, by Edd, the tang shouldn't be in contact with anything?

The "rear" of the tang shouldn't contact anything. I would want full contact on the bottom of the tang. The screw holes should be about 5/16" in diameter. Don't muck up your screw holes in an attempt to fix a mucked up bedding job.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I personally prefer full action bedding. What you picture shows is a nominal - at best - tiny dot of bedding under the tang, which surely can't be exerting any even pressure when that screw is tightened. My suspicion is that the front doesn't look any better.

To fix your "screw problem" I think you need to fix your bedding problem. Otherwise you're treating the symptom and not the disease.

 

[the444shooter]

The "rear" of the tang shouldn't contact anything. I would want full contact on the bottom of the tang. The screw holes should be about 5/16" in diameter. Don't muck up your screw holes in an attempt to fix a mucked up bedding job.

Got it--thank you. It seems that there is not contact on the "rear" of the tang. I'm not touching the screw holes in the action at all, but just the holes in the bedding block itself.

 

[the444shooter]

I personally prefer full action bedding. What you picture shows is a nominal - at best - tiny dot of bedding under the tang, which surely can't be exerting any even pressure when that screw is tightened. My suspicion is that the front doesn't look any better.

To fix your "screw problem" I think you need to fix your bedding problem. Otherwise you're treating the symptom and not the disease.

To my very untrained eye, the front bedding seems to be pretty good.

 

[Dr. Vette]

To my very untrained eye, the front bedding seems to be pretty good.

But, it's keeping your screw from lining up. Having a nice square hole in the wrong spot doesn't help you at all. If you could move that nice lug area 1/32 inch backward it would be great...but you can't without redoing it.

That's why I would redo it.

 

[the444shooter]

But, it's keeping your screw from lining up. Having a nice square hole in the wrong spot doesn't help you at all. If you could move that nice lug area 1/32 inch backward it would be great...but you can't without redoing it.

That's why I would redo it.

I thought about that, and checked the recess in the bedding block for the recoil lug, and I can see aluminum on the lug recess face, so it can't go back any further, (insert Super Troopers "he can't pull over any further" movie clip) unless I was able to mill out another 1/16-1/32" of the bedding block to get the recommended fit. You're correct about it being a nice square shape in the wrong spot, just like my previous post pointed out, it seats the action nice and securely..........too far forward, hahaha. That's why I went down the rabbit hole of enlarging the holes in the bedding block so that there was no screw contact on the block. I guess we'll see if I did anything to improve it. Thank you, all, who took the time to contribute and troubleshoot this with me!

 

[J E Custom]

Like Dr. Vette I also like to do a full action bedding so the actions screws don't flex the action. The reason for a pillar is to have it contact the action and the floor metal so the action screw can apply tension without flexing the action when torqued. The gap above the action embed screw and the action should be in contact with the action and with the floor metal to prevent the stock material from being compressed over time causing the action screws to lose torque and further flex the action.

Like others said, I would recommend a full bedding and improving the pillar contact. After seeing the lack of support in the rear tang area, I feel you have more issues that need addressing.

Just My Opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[the444shooter]

Like Dr. Vette I also like to do a full action bedding so the actions screws don't flex the action. The reason for a pillar is to have it contact the action and the floor metal so the action screw can apply tension without flexing the action when torqued. The gap above the action embed screw and the action should be in contact with the action and with the floor metal to prevent the stock material from being compressed over time causing the action screws to lose torque and further flex the action.

Like others said, I would recommend a full bedding and improving the pillar contact. After seeing the lack of support in the rear tang area, I feel you have more issues that need addressing.

Just My Opinion

J E CUSTOM

thank you for contributing your professional opinion—I'm still perplexed as to how much more support the tang area needs. If you see in my close up picture, it shows that it's supported by the bedding block on either side of the screw hole—is that not enough support?

And by full action bedding, I'm assuming you mean bedding the length of the area (on both sides) I have circled in the 2nd pic?

Thanks again

 

[J E Custom]

Here is what it should look like in my opinion.

https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

This is just one example but you can get the idea of how much is/should be bedded.

If done right, this would be called a stress free bedding. (The action is 100% supported with no external forces applied by the stock or action screws to the action).

J E CUSTOM

 

[338 dude]

This is the best picture I could get, and clearly shows the indentions of the action screw in the bedding block. Gun has also been skim bedded, which unfortunately, seems only to make it more secure in having screw/block contact. Rear screw is also making similar contact, but could not get a picture of it due to poor lighting.

If you had the front of the action squared up it is slightly shorter when the barrel Tightens against the recoil lug that could be why it is doing that

 

[Edd]

If you had the front of the action squared up it is slightly shorter when the barrel Tightens against the recoil lug that could be why it is doing that

He has a Model 70 Winchester.