Primers and Powder for 308

Lapua brass is available if you poke around, great for multiple reloads.
F210 primer
Start easy with Varget
Sierra 168MK or Hdy 168 match
Have fun and be safe. Write everything down!
Good luck!
 
Thanks. My main purpose will be for hunting but plan on shooting paper a lot while I learn to load myself. I'm not really looking for a huge improvement on accuracy yet but more to learn the skill of loading my own. Maybe after a hundred or so of my own I will start diving into the rabbit hole of accuracy and velocity but for now I just want to learn.
Still, part of the fun is to do a ladder to find optimal charge weight. followed by seating depth at the same time you are learning basic reloading. This will reinforce striving for consistency.
In these times of scarce supplies, it is more imperative that we learn as much as we can from each load.
 
I have found that a chronograph is mandatory or else you are just guessing.

Light ejector marks are most consistent sign of pressure signs followed by bright ejector mark and stiff bolt lift. Recognize these and don't load beyond light ejector marks.

308 size case I feel 0.5 grain increments is safe range to work up loads to find pressure.

Your first firing of brass will be the most different from fired brass. Each time you load brass keep them all the same firing. Don't mix batches. After you fire them the first time and start your second loading on the cases verify your velocity and charge weight. Often times it will be slightly different [ usually within a grain though..]

Keep asking questions and reading.

Have fun!!!
 
308 is a great tolerant to reload cartridge that can basically do anything pretty well to great.

GM 210M primers though just about any standard primer works good

CFE 223 for velocity and easy metering


Varget for temp stability but full power loads are often heavily compressed.

H4895 best compromise.
 
Chronograph is vital, after you get the basics of reloading down. Some on here never see a need for one, but you have two variables affecting accuracy: charge weight and seating depth.
The chronograph is valuable in finding the optimum (not maximum, but most consistent) muzzle velocity. After you've done that, work on seating depth.
And don't waste your money on a cheap, screen-type chrony (I fought with and cursed one foir my first 10 years of reloading); they are hard to use, and you waste a lot of shots when you get shots that weren't detected. That will mess up your statistics. You want to shoot at least 5 rounds of each charge weight, for the SD to mean anything. As you zero in on your OCW (optimal charge weight), shoot 10 rounds of each weight for more meaningful stats.
What are good stats (SD and Extreme Spread)?? Look at the threads on here.
Which brand?? Most everybody on here will agree on Magnetospeed or Labradar. (There are other long threads debating and comparing the two.)
 
I was at a store in NH yesterday and they had LG & Small Rifle and pistol. Limit 200. Got to talking with 1 of the sales personal and they used to limit it to 500, but hadn't even paid for it yet) . The salesman told his boss and the pulled the 500 from him and told him where to go.

Always take 1 to ruin it for all of us..
 
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