Possible Bedding Issue?

[scsims]

This is a Remington 700 SPS Varmint rifle in 308 skim bedded in a Choate Sniper stock. Over the years shooting this gun I get some really good 1/4" groups periodically but I've never been able to get rid of flyers that open my groups up to around MOA from time to time. I have checked to make sure the action screws are tight and the scope mounting. I don't have a torque driver to check for the correct tightness but I just ordered one.

I did this skim bedding job a few years ago. I followed direction I found on the internet but I never bedded it infront of the recoil lug? Could this contribute to the inconsistancy? Should I go ahead and bed it in the space infront of the lug?

 

[J E Custom]

For hunting rifles where they may be banged around a little, I like to completely bed the recoil
lug except for the bottom. (I place several layers of tape on the bottom of the lug and trim it
to match the bottom), Then after bedding, remove it to get the clearance needed (I like .020).

This method holds the barreled action from moving back and forth and also keeps it from
rotating.

I also recomend if you dont have pillars , the torque should be around 45 inch/pounds on the
action screws. Pillars allow higher torque.

Get a torque wrench and after each removal of the barreled action from the stock re torque
to the same torque.

This should help the consistency

J E CUSTOM

 

[scsims]

OK, have acouple of more questions:

1. Bedding around except for the bottom of the recoil lug. How far do I take it infront of the lug? It's 1.5" to the next section.... that might be what this area is for??

2. It has a aluminum bedding block, so what do I torque the action screws to?

 

[J E Custom]

OK, have acouple of more questions:

1. Bedding around except for the bottom of the recoil lug. How far do I take it infront of the lug? It's 1.5" to the next section.... that might be what this area is for??

2. It has a aluminum bedding block, so what do I torque the action screws to?

I typed out a detailed description and when I went to post, the site went down so i will try
again.

Bedding blocks are designed for installation without bedding and work fairly well, but I bed
them any way.

I normally Carry the bedding out from 0 to 1" depending on the barrel size and shape (If the
contour starts at the recoil lug I dont bed the barrel at all. If it has a straight shank I will bed
1/2" to 1 " and then remove some or all of it if it does not shoot as well as it should.

If you re bed the stock you have clear all of the bedding around the action screw holes and
ad a bushing or washers until it touches the reciever to support the torque.(Up to 65 inch/pounds)

As it is now I would stare at 30 inch pounds and work up to 45 inch pounds or until best accuracy
is obtained.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Dr. Vette]

I'd recommend you look at this thread (ignore pics on the first page - links got hacked):
Bedding Project - Sniper's Hide Forums

and this article:
Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

Between the two I think you'll learn quite a bit about how to re-do your bedding job, and that will help you immensely.

For the huge cavity in front of the recoil lug I'd probably fill the front half with plumber's putty or PlayDoh when I bedded the rifle, and then use Devcon to fill the rest of it and bed the recoil lug.
I usually place a layer of tape on the front and the sides of the recoil lug (as well as underneath) as it makes it far easier to remove and reinstall the action. When they fit very tight because of no space it can be a challenge at times.
I'd drill a few holes into that aluminum to help hold the bedding compound (Devcon being my favorite) in place.

Just my thoughts looking at your bedding photos.

 

[scsims]

I'd recommend you look at this thread (ignore pics on the first page - links got hacked):
Bedding Project - Sniper's Hide Forums

and this article:
Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

Between the two I think you'll learn quite a bit about how to re-do your bedding job, and that will help you immensely.

For the huge cavity in front of the recoil lug I'd probably fill the front half with plumber's putty or PlayDoh when I bedded the rifle, and then use Devcon to fill the rest of it and bed the recoil lug.
I usually place a layer of tape on the front and the sides of the recoil lug (as well as underneath) as it makes it far easier to remove and reinstall the action. When they fit very tight because of no space it can be a challenge at times.
I'd drill a few holes into that aluminum to help hold the bedding compound (Devcon being my favorite) in place.

Just my thoughts looking at your bedding photos.

So you'd recommend just leaving the Acra Glass in place and drilling a few holes then bedding the front area again over the old bedding compound?

 

[scsims]

I went ahead and removed the old bedding..... wasn't hard at all. Basically popped right out. Which probably indicates that I didn't do a good job to begin with.

Going to get some Devcon today and skim bed it again.

1. Do I need to scar up the bedding block more than I already have? Drill the holes a little deeper?

2. Do I need to use the bushing or washers or just apply bedding directly in the block like before?

 

[Dr. Vette]

Scott,

Please re-read the links I provided again. The photos (once you get past the first page) on the Sniper's Hide thread will tell you more than my short descriptions below. You will see some good bedding jobs, some not as good. Both are educational.

I'd probably add a few more holes (and deeper) to the front block. Removing the old stuff was a good idea and I'm not surprised it just popped off. Be sure there are no burrs sticking up and touching the action when you set it in the stock.

Look photos on the top half of page 2 of the thread I posted. Tape the barrel to center it in the stock, then use a piece of paper (I use a receipt from the store or a $1 bill) to be sure the stock is not touching the action. If so, you may have to remove some paint or similar from the stock where the Devcon will attach. Don't be afraid to use some 80 grit to rough up the inside of the stock so that the Devcon will stick.

I always use blue masking tape on a stud (3 inch bolt with head cut off) to center my forward action screw in the hole, with tape actually touching the action as I screw in the stud so Devcon doesn't get between them. Once the front stud has as much tape on it as I can apply I then do the same using a rear stud. I often can't get quite as much tape around a rear stud as the rear always seems a bit forward or backward in the hole if the front is centered, but that's OK.

Let us know what questions you have.

 

[scsims]

Finished the rebedding job...... what do you all think?

 

[Dr. Vette]

Much improved!

I use a Dremel as well as a round "rat tail" file and a triangular "rat tail" file to clean up the bedding material and have it look as good as possible. Be very, very careful with the Dremel.

 

[jsthntn247]

Much improved!

I use a Dremel as well as a round "rat tail" file and a triangular "rat tail" file to clean up the bedding material and have it look as good as possible. Be very, very careful with the Dremel.

Looks like you did a good job. Instead of all that teadious taping job, I would suggest for next time to pop the action out after 3-4 hours and do an initial clean up with a exacto knife. You can stick the knife into the bedding that runs down into the mag well to check and see when it is just firm enough to cut with the knife but not soft to indent in the bedding material. Doing this will almost eliminate the dremel which is very easy to mess up with. I learned how to bed rifles about two years ago by reading those same two topics, all mine have turned out great.