Parallax and hunting scopes

DartonJager

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I have been trying to answer a question concerning scopes with adjustable parallax and those without for use in making shots on deer sized and larger game at ranges of 600 yards and less. Of all the subjects surrounding scopes parallax is without doubt IMHO the most least and misunderstood and improperly explained.

I've done literally countless searches for information trying to find a definitive yes or no answer and Ive come up with the fallowing schools of thought that brake down into two groups.

Group one claimed at ranges at or below 600 yards and lower scope magnification below 12x parallax won't impact your accuracy enough to matter, and it's only when you either (or both) exceed 600 yards or use higher magnification above 12X does Parallax have enough impact to affect your accuracy resulting in poor hits or cause a complete miss.

The second group claimed the exact opposite.

Having never shot beyond 500 yards and 12x, so I have no personal experience to determine which school of thought is true or closest to the truth.

I know nearly everyone is of the opinion you are better off with a parallax adjustable scope, and I understand the why of this belief, I would just like as close to definitive answer as I can get.

I have read the parallax explanations stickys here and many other places so I have a decent understand of what it is and why it occurs in rifle scopes. I just wish to be certain if it will affect hunting accuracy on large game like deer and elk at or below 600 yards and at what magnification will parallax begin to impact accuracy to the point it must be rectified.

Thanks,
DJager/Art.
 
I hunt groundhogs out to 600yds or so, and It's very rare that I drop below 25x. So I have to adjust parallax at all ranges, if nothing else but target focus. I need that power and other features that I'm used to.
But it would be nice if I did not have to mess with it all the time, so I wouldn't unless I had to.

At lower power and your set range limit & larger killzones, I'm sure a fixed parallax scope is fine.
Skipping this feature should allow for better glass options in a similar price range of scopes.
 
If the scope has a PA adjustment, it is necessary to use it and adjust it at any range ( not looking to argue, just my opinion). If the scope does not have a PA adjustment, it is set from the factory for a specific range. I have heard alot of scopes are set at around 150 yards. I have taken several non PA adjustable scopes and set them up for mid range. How much it affects your poi changes at say 600 yards will depend on how consistent your cheekweld is etc. For example, using a NF with the PA purposely not adjusted for 100 yards the reticle will be all over the target depending on cheekweld position. However, if your cheek weld was perfect every time, you could still shoot close to center each time. This is nearly impossible to do, especially in field condtions. So bottom line, in my opinion, you can get away with no PA out to 500-600 yards for a good quality scope that is built with no adjustment. There will be some reticle movement at 600 yards, but the individual rifle/scope/shooter will have to determine the max distance they are capable of making acceptable hits on a repeatable basis
 
If you ever have the opportunity, try this with a non PA adjustable scope, and it may answer your question without firing a shot. Set your rifle up in a rest at a 600 yard target. Without touching the rifle, move your head around and notice how far the reticle is moving around on the target. Then know that depending on how your cheekweld position is, you may be holding the cross hairs anywhere within the movement you saw. Again, this can be minimized by consistent cheek weld, buy the margin of error is there and can be hard to get right in field conditions. I think you got this, but for clarification, if the PA is set right, there will no reticle movement when you move your head around as described above.
 
If you ever have the opportunity, try this with a non PA adjustable scope, and it may answer your question without firing a shot. Set your rifle up in a rest at a 600 yard target. Without touching the rifle, move your head around and notice how far the reticle is moving around on the target. Then know that depending on how your cheekweld position is, you may be holding the cross hairs anywhere within the movement you saw. Again, this can be minimized by consistent cheek weld, buy the margin of error is there and can be hard to get right in field conditions. I think you got this, but for clarification, if the PA is set right, there will no reticle movement when you move your head around as described above.

I have a 4.5-14x40mm WGS that's in my safe and will use it for the test you suggest as I simply don't have a 600 yard range closer to me than 2+ hours. I do have a old one piece wood stock I could easily attach a scope to and able to do the test you suggest, or possibly better I have multiple one piece weaver mounts that I could attach to a dead straight and level section of aluminum I beam I have and that would likely work better than a wood stock.

Thanks for your input,
Art.
 
From my experience I would not have a scope if it didn't have adjustable objective or side focus. What one of our .com friends posted about the reticle moving is too much for me to overcome when in the field firing from different positions and different angles.

Most of the time I set it for about 150 and forget it until a long shot presents itself. In the woods it will never make a difference.
 
From my experience I would not have a scope if it didn't have adjustable objective or side focus. What one of our .com friends posted about the reticle moving is too much for me to overcome when in the field firing from different positions and different angles.

Most of the time I set it for about 150 and forget it until a long shot presents itself. In the woods it will never make a difference.
+1 for me. That's about how I operate .
 
For any of my dedicated long range rifles, I agree with you both completely. I have helped several friends/ acquaintances get set up for medium ranges, using vx1 scopes and M1 turrets, and it does work out to medium range decently well. The typical scenario is, they don't want to get into long range but want to be able to practice for the opportunity if a 400 to 500 yard shot presents itself. Almost every one of them get a hooked and wants to go further, and then requires different equipment.
 
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