Paralax adjustment, what am I doing wrong?

Bigeclipse

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Ok so I have read about the bobblehead technique to confirm your scopes parallax marks. I am using a Bushnell Forge 2.5-15x50. My at home range allows me to shoot 100, 200, ~300 (290 I believe) and 600 yards due to a rolling hill which gets in the way of the other distances. So I cannot shoot distances in between 300-600 yards. I did bobble head at my 100, 200 and 300 settings on my scope and they appear to be very close to their settings. My scope has 25, 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500 and infinity marks. Well this is where it gets weird, when I went to 600 I used the infinity mark and did the bobble head and the crosshairs moved a LOT so I started backing down the parallax while bobbling and for some reason the least movement (almost none) occurred between the 200 and 300 marks. What is up? I hope I explained that right.
 

J E Custom

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Ok so I have read about the bobblehead technique to confirm your scopes parallax marks. I am using a Bushnell Forge 2.5-15x50. My at home range allows me to shoot 100, 200, ~300 (290 I believe) and 600 yards due to a rolling hill which gets in the way of the other distances. So I cannot shoot distances in between 300-600 yards. I did bobble head at my 100, 200 and 300 settings on my scope and they appear to be very close to their settings. My scope has 25, 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500 and infinity marks. Well this is where it gets weird, when I went to 600 I used the infinity mark and did the bobble head and the crosshairs moved a LOT so I started backing down the parallax while bobbling and for some reason the least movement (almost none) occurred between the 200 and 300 marks. What is up? I hope I explained that right.


The marks are just a reference point and many times not that accurate. One reason the newer scopes have the parallax adjustments on the side instead of the objective bell is to be able to make adjustments on the fly. (Side Focus) It is not unusual for the yard marks to be off somewhat, so you have to adjust at the distance you plan to shoot to get the best adjustment.

Many of the older premium scopes did well if you adjusted them at a known distance and just used them without re adjusting for hunting within reasonable distances.

So for best accuracy I recommend adjusting at all distances. Some people re mark the parallax
knob to the real settings.

J E CUSTOM
 

Bigeclipse

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The marks are just a reference point and many times not that accurate. One reason the newer scopes have the parallax adjustments on the side instead of the objective bell is to be able to make adjustments on the fly. (Side Focus) It is not unusual for the yard marks to be off somewhat, so you have to adjust at the distance you plan to shoot to get the best adjustment.

Many of the older premium scopes did well if you adjusted them at a known distance and just used them without re adjusting for hunting within reasonable distances.

So for best accuracy I recommend adjusting at all distances. Some people re mark the parallax
knob to the real settings.

J E CUSTOM
Yeah but does it make sense that my 100, 200, 300 yard marks are pretty good but then for 600 yards I get less crosshair movement when the parallax is set between the 200-300 marking than I do at the 500 or infinity markings?
 

J E Custom

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Yeah but does it make sense that my 100, 200, 300 yard marks are pretty good but then for 600 yards I get less crosshair movement when the parallax is set between the 200-300 marking than I do at the 500 or infinity markings?


I would have to refer that to the optical experts. I can only comment on the things I have encountered with Parallax in many different scopes. I understand the importance of getting it right for any distance and Shooting from different distances and positions can change the parallax, but why the optical guys cant get index marks right is a question I would have to ask the manufacture of the scope.

J E CUSTOM
 

243winxb

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After the eye piece is adjusted correctly, turn the parallax so the target is clear.
But 15 power may be to low for 600 yards.
 

mwkelso

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OP-
I have the same issue on a Burris. I had to get comfortable with ignoring the marks and trusting my eye.
I did find that I thought my cheek was totally clear of the comb when doing this test. Turns out some of the movement was my cheek, some was from my shoulder. Once I eliminated the physical movement of the rifle I was much more trusting of my eye for parallax adjustments.
 

dfanonymous

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15 is more than enough for 1000y.

Paralax and focus might be on the same knob but they are different. It’s possible to be paralax free and having bad focus or vise versa.

Long story short, between differences in scopes and eyes to include astigmatism, paralax is going to be different between everyone. You only need to see the target so just adjust like you have been to get the paralax out. However you will have less issues and unknowns with paralax if your rifle and optic is set up properly and you have consistent head placement behind the gun.
 

26Reload

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My lrp 6.5-20x50 marks don't correspond very well either....
I find my best vision from my eye thru my glasses to the scope to the target is best right around the 15x....as in mine..might be in yours....due to your vision and maybe optics on your face if you wear glasses......
I do know some guys on modern muzzleloader were wearing their reading glasses while target shooting with a scope...after all you are actually looking at a picture up close of a target far away......seems odd.....but they do it....and i think theres a guy on here that may do that exact thing.....encore?
 

Bearguide444

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Jan 19, 2014
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I have a Leupold veri x 3i 4.5x15x40 and it’s new to me. I called and asked technical service from Leupold and they stated use my side focus knob to adjust parrelex. I adjust side focus to my target till it’s focused and it’s set. Also don’t pay attention to the knob settings since they are reference only. I have not mounted or used the scope yet but anxious to see if that’s how it really works.
 
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