Older Savage 110 bolt lift

Groot

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I have no idea when it was made but I have an older Savage 110 in 7 mag with the flat back receiver. Its a non accutrigger model with a top bolt release. At the top of the bolt lift there's a "hump." The bolt lift is relatively smooth from the bottom position till the top 1/2 - 3/4 inch or so and then it hits a wall and it takes a decent amount of leverage to get it to pop up. I have another savage that sorta has the same feeling but it is nowhere near as noticeable.

Is this normal for savage rifles? Will replacing the trigger with say a timney or a rifle six trigger help? Or would installing a bolt lift kit help?

Thanks in advance!
 

Barrelnut

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It is probably the normal Savage bolt lift issue, just a more severe case of it. It has to do with the angle of the cocking ramp, for the most part.
Probably the best solution is to get an extended tactical bolt handle for it. Tons of tactical companies sell bolt handles for them. Some are pretty nice too. While you are changing the handle, installing a bolt lift kit might help a little too. The lift kit might just make things seem a little "smoother" though.

Here' some examples:
 

Groot

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Thanks Barrelnut, I originally planned on getting a different bolt handle because I'm not a fan of the one that's on it now hopefully that helps with the issue. You mentioned the angle of the cocking ramp likely being the issue, is that something that can be modified or replaced to make it a smother transition to the cocked position?

I'm going to break it down and give it a good cleaning in a bit and see if that helps, Its likely its never been done before.
 

Barrelnut

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You mentioned the angle of the cocking ramp likely being the issue, is that something that can be modified or replaced to make it a smother transition to the cocked position?
On the bolt body there is an angled slot that the cocking pin bolt rides on. This is what pulls the pin back and cocks it. At the top of the slot is a hump that the pin bolt has to ride over before it rests in the cocked position. Some folks grind that hump down a little. That will remove some of the force that is required rite at the top of the bolt lift. You have to be careful here though, too much and the rifle might have issues staying cocked..... Link below is to a Youtube vid where a guy is installing a lift kit and adjust the hump "burr". Have a look at 4:45 in the vid. He describes it real well.

 

Groot

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On the bolt body there is an angled slot that the cocking pin bolt rides on. This is what pulls the pin back and cocks it. At the top of the slot is a hump that the pin bolt has to ride over before it rests in the cocked position. Some folks grind that hump down a little. That will remove some of the force that is required rite at the top of the bolt lift. You have to be careful here though, too much and the rifle might have issues staying cocked..... Link below is to a Youtube vid where a guy is installing a lift kit and adjust the hump "burr". Have a look at 4:45 in the vid. He describes it real well.


Thanks for sending that, I followed what he did and removed the hump from the bolt body a little bit, cleaned everything up, polished the inside and outside of the cocking sleeve, and reapplied some hopes 9 and some gun grease and there's a significant difference in the smoothness, there's still a bit of a "hump" at the top of the throw but overall its much better. Thanks for the help!
 

BallisticsGuy

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Nickle .38spl case, cut off near the base, drop a steel ball bearing into the primer pocket. Fixed.

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