OK I'm going to learn how to use MOA instead of a custom dial. Scenario Questions

[Elkaholic Hunter]

Pretty good discussion here, lots of good input. Here's my $0.02 I hunt NW Montana terrain is steep and thick and shot opportunities are quick. I am only a few years into this long range journey and have grappled with this scenario quite a bit. If money was no issue the answer would probably get a gunwerks G7, Sig 2400 or similar. But I am cheap so until I can afford something better this is the best idea I've come up with. While I do carry a range card I find it super cumbersome to take my face off the gun and target to look down at my range card. So I put a piece of packing tape on my turret and wrote out my own CDS dial with a white permanent paint sharpie (extra fine). Redneck but it works. I also carry and altimeter and an anemometer with a temp gauge. If I were to take a shot past 600 I would verify all my environmental's and run a custom firing solution through my app. As far as wind goes I shoot Mil and recently listen to episode 005 of modern day sniper podcast. Check it out and blew my mind. I determined that my gun is a 9 mile per hour gun. For quick holds under 800 yds a 9 mph a wind would give me .5 mil at 500 .6 at 600 .7 at 700 etc. wind is linear so you can scale your holds. Also my rangefinder is a sig 2200 mr so nothing to spend but it gives me angle modified range. Hope that's food for though on a budget.

 

[DSheetz]

The angle modified ranging for me is a great improvement to the rangefinders

 

[stonehands1]

Shooting moa is all I have done. Have a basic range finder So nothing fancy. I personally feel if your going to take that shot in that amount of time that you would have had to make that before on the range. More specifically not on the range but in the field practicing.
Theres an old saying: The body won't go where the mind hasn't already been. The mind can process and calculate faster than any computer. Computers have the advantage of focused thought so to speak.
The only way our brains can make those (specific) calcs that fast is to have done it multiple times before.
If your not spending anytime in the field practicing those scenario shots in the off season your chance of success (a good kill shot) in 30 seconds I would say is less than 10%. Maybe someday they'll have a scope that does it all for us and then that will be an easy shot.
I think the best you can do now is a good ballistic range finder that will do everything but wind. Other than that its train, practice train, practice and repeat.

 

[stonehands1]

View attachment 185504
Pretty good discussion here, lots of good input. Here's my $0.02 I hunt NW Montana terrain is steep and thick and shot opportunities are quick. I am only a few years into this long range journey and have grappled with this scenario quite a bit. If money was no issue the answer would probably get a gunwerks G7, Sig 2400 or similar. But I am cheap so until I can afford something better this is the best idea I've come up with. While I do carry a range card I find it super cumbersome to take my face off the gun and target to look down at my range card. So I put a piece of packing tape on my turret and wrote out my own CDS dial with a white permanent paint sharpie (extra fine). Redneck but it works. I also carry and altimeter and an anemometer with a temp gauge. If I were to take a shot past 600 I would verify all my environmental's and run a custom firing solution through my app. As far as wind goes I shoot Mil and recently listen to episode 005 of modern day sniper podcast. Check it out and blew my mind. I determined that my gun is a 9 mile per hour gun. For quick holds under 800 yds a 9 mph a wind would give me .5 mil at 500 .6 at 600 .7 at 700 etc. wind is linear so you can scale your holds. Also my rangefinder is a sig 2200 mr so nothing to spend but it gives me angle modified range. Hope that's food for though on a budget.

This is a great way to do it. Gives you quick yardage if needed but with moa dial for longer shots or changing conditions.

 

[Tangent]

I am not on the same page as some here.

As I recall, Len started this forum because long range hunting was frowned on at other sites because long range shots were not generally considered *Rule 1 Violation*al. With better rifles, better loads, better equipment, better knowledge, and most of all better shooters, it has become quite realistic to take longer shots with confidence.

However, there are no rules or guidelines for this forum that I know of that insist that all members only focus on long range. Hunting is hunting - whether that is 10 yards or 1000. I'd like to think that everyone here can benefit from any discussion about rifles at any range and that the long range aspects are inclusive not exclusive.

No competent long range shooter that I know would back up 1000 yards from a 50 point buck encountered at 50 yards for the sake of avoiding a close range shot.

My thanks to Len Backus for making it possible to include the aspects of long range hunting in our discussions.

And also my thanks to all those members who welcome all discussions regardless of range. We all benefit from sharing with each other.

Yeah, I'd agree with most of what your saying. BUT bad advice that would lead to missing, or worse yet, wounding an animal is not cool. If guys don't shoot long range, then they should not jump in and give their ignorant opinion on long range.

The OP is asking about hitting a target at 650 yards. If guys haven't done this before or aren't proficient at it, they should sit back and learn from those who have - or find a different thread where they could actually contribute.

 

[sp6x6]

Ian you can't do that

 

[excaliber]

How about something like this? Moa for the moa guys and calculated yardage too.
It's a Kenton Military dial

 

[Recon$$]

What's wrong with a dope card.... Learn the system mil/moa and memorize your rough dopes. There is a reason no one can make an end all cds system for a scope. If you want to be as accurate as you can, learn to shoot using mil/moa. Seems to me people are spending more time Jerry rigging things then just learning it.

 

[bghartle]

I use a Sig BDX 2200 an inexpensive Caldwell weather meter Strelok and FX1000 nikon scopes. Once you enter in the weather it will save it along with the elevation. Unless you take some pretty drastic changes throughout the day all you have to enter is distance, slope, wind, and direction. From there I also make a range card for 40 degrees at 9k with wind holds to 20 mph. In the summer I make a couple of trips into my areas and get up early set up and verify both systems before it warms up on rocks ext before the temps come up.
With that being said the average size elk vital is 18"x12" and if you've done your part (practicing) that shot should be attainable in 30 seconds. If you can't get it in time then that's that and continue on possibly closing the gap. Reading the wind is the hard part but you do have ruffly 6" to play with and if you are in question falter toward the shoulder remembering the 1500 foot lbs of energy rule.
My point is this is a large area to hit and we are not trying for one raged hole groups. One shot one kill (but jack the next one in and keep shooting just in case). I like to save wherever I can and spend money on tags and fuel to get there.