Numbers don't add up

I only have a 100 yard spot to shoot. I have an Idaho elk hunt in october where the ranges are 400 + yards. I put a target at the bottom of a tall cardboard target. Using my Vortex Razor's internal bullet drop comp. I checked zero on my 300 Win Mag using 180 gr. Federal Trophy Bonded tip factory. My zero was 2' high at 100. Now using the scopes 300, 400, and 500 yard marks I aimed at my zero spot and shot at the yardage mentioned above. My 300 yard mark was right on at 6.5 inches of holdover. The 400 yard was 14.7 inches high vs Federals 19.2 inch,
THe 500 yard was for me 22.5 inches vs Federal's 38.6 inches. The Federal info came from the ballistic calculator. My rifle can't be shooting that flat so can someone explain where I went wrong
I will admit that I am Jr. High level talking to college level, but I chose to go a different route. I do not like to ball park anything. If I am shooting at an animal at lengthy yardages, I don't shoot unless everything is right. So, I have a program that is for my bullet, my scope height and my velocity. I have used many scopes but have a NXS with fine cross hair with dot. I use a leica rangefinder and click my scope to the exact yardage and hold on, with a perfect clear sight picture. There are many good programs to choose, the one that I use is very accurate. I talked to a sniper and we were talking about this and he said they use the marks because they have to shoot quickly and don't need to be exact, a body hit from waist to neck is good enough. He said that in cases where there is time they also click to exact points. I have also used a scope with 1/8 minute clicks and prefer having "finer" adjustments. At 1000 yards 1 click makes a difference when using scope with 1/4 minute clicks. Guess I am just old school.
 
This goes to show two things.....
1...Lance has too much free time on his hands.....
2...no matter what the stadia lines are...if the bullets path doesn't follow...it won't work perfectly.....
 
I have a 270 win I took an older speer manual with the bullet drop tables in it and tested them out to see if they were accurate. Velocity and the coefficient were plugged in and it told me for a 300 yrd zero to set my 100 yrd zero 1.5 inches high. So after doing that I then fired a group at 300 yrd. I was surprised at how close it came it was low about a 1/8th of a inch not enough to make a difference.
 
As someone already pointed out I'm sure the OP has a vortex Razor LH in 2-10 with the G4 reticle. It's a good scope and reticle that should do what he's asking it to do. From his posts I see two likely issues-

1) that reticle will only give you the drops/MOAs indicated in the manual when it's on its highest power. Turning it to "almost" all the way up won't work, it's got to be all the way at 10x

2) you're not actually zeroed at 200 yards. 2" high at 100 doesn't make you actually zeroed at 200. Hopefully you can practice out to 400 before your hunt but that can be hard many places. If at all possible, AT LEAST find a range that goes out to 200 and get a true 200 yard zero. If you can do that, and you remember to turn your scope up all the way before using the reticle to take a shot, you should be good out to 400.
 
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