Now werre Talkin!!
- Thread starter NesikaChad
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No, but I thought about it and figured I should at least ask her before hand, so I decided to pull it. I'll pick my battles. . .
Smart call!
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
Ultimately what I'm after is along these lines. This is my Palma rifle built 6 years ago. The Nesika logo up front is a pewter inlay. (and it mother _ _ ked me the whole time too as it was the first time I'd ever done it) The hardware is all stuff I make in house. Notice the lack of screws in the rail. I've yet to use an accessory rail that didn't snag the handstop/bi pod on the screw countersinks. SO I did away with mounting it from the bottom. Come in from the top and the problem is solved.
Much cleaner presentation and better function I think.
Adjustable cheekpiece is a quick detach that retains the setting. Nice for palma as a "safe gun" is one with the bolt removed when moving to and from the firing line. Most likely not very practical for a Tac rifle though. I'm kinda bummed about the fit in the stock. When I did it the fit was 1:1 but three years in the middle east (I was a security contractor from 06-09) meant no one to maintenance this thing. the stock shrunk a bit and as a result there's a big ol fat gap now between the hardware and the stock. Sucks!
This rifle will get the same treatment only everything is going to be in steel and case colored afterward, including the action and small parts. Probably go with a titanium tactical blue falcon coat on the barrel.
Bling Bling!
Much cleaner presentation and better function I think.
Adjustable cheekpiece is a quick detach that retains the setting. Nice for palma as a "safe gun" is one with the bolt removed when moving to and from the firing line. Most likely not very practical for a Tac rifle though. I'm kinda bummed about the fit in the stock. When I did it the fit was 1:1 but three years in the middle east (I was a security contractor from 06-09) meant no one to maintenance this thing. the stock shrunk a bit and as a result there's a big ol fat gap now between the hardware and the stock. Sucks!
This rifle will get the same treatment only everything is going to be in steel and case colored afterward, including the action and small parts. Probably go with a titanium tactical blue falcon coat on the barrel.
Bling Bling!
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NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
Chewin on the B channel
Russ M
Well-Known Member
NesikaChad what is it that you use for bedding compound
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
A few updates. . .
First, had to get the hell out of town for the weekend with the girly. Went to Denver to party like rock stars. (Old fart Rock stars that are in bed by 11 that is)
Monday comes far too soon after a great weekend.
Here's what we got.
Bolt handle's done
Gas Check port
Loading port. This is my "bold move" of the day. The Barnard port bugged me, so I changed it. It's now a cross between a Remington and a Nesika. I like it better this way for a number of reasons. With no ejector the spent case is easier to get to without pulling the gun out of your shoulder. I bedded this gun with the action a little further to the rear than normal also in the effort to keep the port and bolt handle nice and close to the shoulder. The idea being to further aid in loading. Since the action is being case colored I'm not worried about the bluing.
Last, the sight block inlet. Pretty basic stuff here. I don't care for 90* sharp corners that cut the grain as they just invite a split so I use a 1/8" cutter here on it's side to produce a radius in the corners. I had to push the inlet down a smidge more to clear the corners of the sight base which is kinda buggin me. Might just have to make a new base out of steel (this one is AL) so that it'll match the action and fit the stock better.
As for bedding materials. . .
I share quite a bit on this forum with what I've got going on in the shop and give a pretty generous explanation of how most things get done. There are a few subject matters that I prefer to keep in house and my choice of resin is one of them. I encourage anyone wanting to bed a gun to focus the attention to the preparation and process more than materials. Just about any modern resin system with a shrinkage rate of less than 2% will work just fine for bedding an action to a stock. Think about what your doing and what measures you can take to reduce the risk of a mechanical lock, a glue in, or inclusions. All the while you need to ensure a high density of material around the action. Work on keeping the air bubbles under control. Those are the most challenging part to this stuff IMO.
It's crawlin up on 10pm. I'm off to bed. Nite!
C
First, had to get the hell out of town for the weekend with the girly. Went to Denver to party like rock stars. (Old fart Rock stars that are in bed by 11 that is)
Monday comes far too soon after a great weekend.
Here's what we got.
Bolt handle's done
Gas Check port
Loading port. This is my "bold move" of the day. The Barnard port bugged me, so I changed it. It's now a cross between a Remington and a Nesika. I like it better this way for a number of reasons. With no ejector the spent case is easier to get to without pulling the gun out of your shoulder. I bedded this gun with the action a little further to the rear than normal also in the effort to keep the port and bolt handle nice and close to the shoulder. The idea being to further aid in loading. Since the action is being case colored I'm not worried about the bluing.
Last, the sight block inlet. Pretty basic stuff here. I don't care for 90* sharp corners that cut the grain as they just invite a split so I use a 1/8" cutter here on it's side to produce a radius in the corners. I had to push the inlet down a smidge more to clear the corners of the sight base which is kinda buggin me. Might just have to make a new base out of steel (this one is AL) so that it'll match the action and fit the stock better.
As for bedding materials. . .
I share quite a bit on this forum with what I've got going on in the shop and give a pretty generous explanation of how most things get done. There are a few subject matters that I prefer to keep in house and my choice of resin is one of them. I encourage anyone wanting to bed a gun to focus the attention to the preparation and process more than materials. Just about any modern resin system with a shrinkage rate of less than 2% will work just fine for bedding an action to a stock. Think about what your doing and what measures you can take to reduce the risk of a mechanical lock, a glue in, or inclusions. All the while you need to ensure a high density of material around the action. Work on keeping the air bubbles under control. Those are the most challenging part to this stuff IMO.
It's crawlin up on 10pm. I'm off to bed. Nite!
C
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NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
Guys if these photos appear crazy big I apologize. I resized them in photobucket but they are coming out huge on my screen and I don't know why.
Too late to fuss with tonight.
Too late to fuss with tonight.
squirrelduster
Well-Known Member
Your pictures are always so helpful.
It sure makes us hacks want to do better. I am not a gunsmith but I bed rifles for family and friends for fun but the quality of your work is amazing.
Every stock I do is better than the last due to looking at the quality of your work.
The CNC work is impressive, from a railroad tie to the finished product it looks like a work of art more than a rifle stock.
Congratulations on a job well done.
It sure makes us hacks want to do better. I am not a gunsmith but I bed rifles for family and friends for fun but the quality of your work is amazing.
Every stock I do is better than the last due to looking at the quality of your work.
The CNC work is impressive, from a railroad tie to the finished product it looks like a work of art more than a rifle stock.
Congratulations on a job well done.
