Nightforce Rails are Cheap on Midway

[Sully2]

OK Fine, so will you take my challenge and join me in some friendly long range shooting? Just to see if your cheap base will out shoot my over priced base with too large of screws holding it on?

Or was your intent and sole purpose simply to troll and be an uninformed expert on rail bases at Walmart prices?

I hope we can meet up, but I am not sure where you are located since you didn't fill out your profile. But you know where I am friend, so like I said bring your best stick with an EGW base and lets burn some long range powder.

Jeff gun)------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PS: Your range finder probably will not reach the first target. But being the nice guy I am, I will let you borrow my over priced one.

.

Yeah..sure. Like Im going to drive 1700 miles one way to take you up on that. Get real dude!!

And BTW..I live near Cincinnati

Would I like to shoot at some Extremely long range stuff? You bet I would.

I buy nothing from Wally World, and nothing I stated would even begin to indicate I was some sort of expert on rails..?? I stated an alternative is all..simple as that.

Someone chimed in and said the #8 screws and steel rail were nice for a "hard shooting magnum"..and I agree 100%...BUT...when I posted NO ONE HAD SAID they had some sort of shoulder cannon..did they?????????

 

[Tikkamike]

Where did anyone state they have said "hard recoiling magnum"??

hard recoiling magnum or not recoil is recoil you need to have the best scope mounting you can.

 

[Sully2]

Anything less than overkill is underachievement!

And thats a lot of BS also! Why not just tack weld the rail on then??? If I were SERIOUSLY worried about my rail shooting loose or getting lose or whatever. Id have my smith align drill a small hole...thru the rail into the reciever and then have a #10 DOWEL PIN set in it.

There is NO WAY any amount of force a rifle would see that can shear off a #10 dowel pin.

 

[Sully2]

Drag out your machinist handbook...you DO have one dont you??...and see how much force it ACTUALLY TAKES to shear off a #6 screw..thats been PROPERLY torqued down...

 

[Tikkamike]

Drag out your machinist handbook...you DO have one dont you??...and see how much force it ACTUALLY TAKES to shear off a #6 screw..thats been PROPERLY torqued down...

Sully2, if only you knew half as much as you think you know. How much force does it take to shear off a #6 screw?...Well Mr. Knowledge, there are a LOT of factors, I don't know them all so I will list the obvious ones. Material composition, Material Hardness and of course the most obvious "METAL FATIGUE is the progressive and localized structural damage that occurs when a material is subjected to cyclic loadings."-Wikipedia.

In case you cant understand that I will sum it up for you
Not all screws are created equal, and regardless of what they are made of they WILL ALL FAIL eventually. That being said with an intregal recoil lug such the ones that NF, BO, etc.. machine into their bases, a large portion, if not all of the "cyclic loadings" (depending on the fit) are now transfered to the base itself and not the screws and that base can take a hell of a lot more abuse than a little screw.
I know you are a simpleton, however I believe you should be able to understand this. I had my 2 year old proof read this and it made sense to her...

 

[Len Backus]

Cool it please.

 

[Tikkamike]

Cool it please.

Done...

 

[brentc]

Don't you need to remove the barrel to drill and tap the receiver to convert to the larger screws? If not, doesn't the barrel shank get in the way of the front screw.

 

[Tikkamike]

Don't you need to remove the barrel to drill and tap the receiver to convert to the larger screws? If not, doesn't the barrel shank get in the way of the front screw.

no just run an 8-32 tap in there and it brings it up to size, its not that much over size.

 

[brentc]

no just run an 8-32 tap in there and it brings it up to size, its not that much over size.

Still, isn't the barrel shank under the front screw?

 

[Broz]

Don't you need to remove the barrel to drill and tap the receiver to convert to the larger screws? If not, doesn't the barrel shank get in the way of the front screw.

The front hole is a blind hole with the barrel threads at bottom. A little care needs to be taken but I do it with a couple of different bottoming taps. Unless I am doing a rebarrel then I do it while the barrel is off.

Jeff

 

[Outlaw6.0]

The New Shop's 1st thread. 8-40 base holes - Sniper's Hide Forums

^^ here is a link to how Chad Dixon does it, in his CNC mill of course. I watched him do to my 338RUM in all of 15mins IIRC. Nope, didn't have to take the barrel off.

 

[WildRose]

Where did anyone state they have said "hard recoiling magnum"??

I did. I can't see much value in the "upgrade" for anything else.

I have however seen magnums sheer off screws and shatter reticles.

I have a couple of scopes that weigh in around 2lbs, including the one on my 300 RUM.

The Larger screws and a base with a recoil lug make sense to me on such a rig, or one in an even larger heavier recoiling caliber.

 

[bigngreen]

Holy Cow, almost missed out. Smokin deal!! Can't believe the rest of this thread, talk about swirling the toilet