New to the 300 win, reload or factory to start?

[Satchamo]

I just ordered a Remington 5R in 300 win today. This is my first time toying with the 300 win so I'm clueless. I've done some reloading for my 308 in the past, but nothing too crazy IE I never measured my lands or really refined a load for it.... But I definitely want to learn how to produce the most accurate round I can for this rifle via reloading.

I have plans to shoot either Berger 215 VLD's or Hornady ELD-X 212s. As far as I could see, there weren't any factory loads with those bullets in them. So my question is this: with a brand new rifle, is it better to just pick up a couple of factory rounds of the heaviest bullet I can find and put them through the gun, sight it in, then use the fire formed brass to really dial a load then adjust my sights for heavier bullets once I reload? Or am I better off picking up empty brass, powder and bullets and going from there?

If you think I should reload, any suggestions on powder and the best empty brass for the $ is appreciated!

 

[Rick Richard]

Hey, shoot it with the factory stuff to get the feel of it. Once you have scratched the itch, then definately reload to get the most out of it for accuracy.

 

[Satchamo]

Hey, shoot it with the factory stuff to get the feel of it. Once you have scratched the itch, then definately reload to get the most out of it for accuracy.

Whats a good, affordable factory round?

 

[Rick Richard]

Whatever you can find since you will likely be disappointed anyway with factory ammo. Remember, you just want to scratch the itch initially.

 

[tmmcampbell]

Lots of good reports with the applied ballistics loaded ammo. I think they are now loaded by Berger. If I was going to shoot factory I would look there first.

 

[odoylerules]

The 300 win mag and Berger 215's with H-1000 powder are absolutely made for each other. There's tons of info out there as far as charge weight and distance from the lands etc.
You'll find the load your rifle likes in no time.

 

[tmmcampbell]

Yes and you can get about 100 fps more with N570.

 

[Satchamo]

Whatever you can find since you will likely be disappointed anyway with factory ammo. Remember, you just want to scratch the itch initially.

I guess I'm more curious as to what brand is going to yield the best brass for reloading relative to the cost?

 

[tmmcampbell]

Google Jeff Brozovich Applied ballistics and you can read about his success. He reports the ammo is accurate and the brass reloads well. Haven't tried it myself. Still waiting for my rifle to be finished. Have only read good reports about the ammo however.

 

[Methinks]

If I was buying some 300WM brass (which I probably will be) I would check these guys out. Great reviews and supposed to be very consistent.

http://www.atlasdg.com/index.cfm/ID/2/BrassCartridgeCases/

 

[pawater]

I helped a friend on a 300 win Savage his brother bought very cheap and it was a mess. Someone replaced the stock and did a very poor job. After shortening the screws and getting it tight,free floated and replaced the bases that didn't fit, they bought some of Hornady's 178 eld match ammo and it shot unbelievably well, 1/2 moa to 420 yards. $350 dollar gun and turned out to be a shooter. I am still shaking my head as I felt he got screwed on the deal. Maybe a cheaper option until you reload. And as state above they have had great luck with the AB ammo as well.

 

[MudRunner2005]

For break-in, it will take about 50 rounds or so for the barrel to settle-in and the groups to start being consistent. Shooting factory ammo during break-in to get fire formed brass for reloading, is a good way of killing 2 birds with 1 stone. Shoot 3 shots, run a wet patch & jag coated in RemOil down it to clean out any loose copper and powder granules, then let it cool. Repeat over and over.

I prefer Nosler brass for my belted magnums, so I would say pickup some of the cheapest Nosler factory ammo you can and then gradually shoot those up. Or just buy a couple boxes of new Nosler brass, and a couple boxes of bullets and make up some handloads.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/9...er-magnum-180-grain-e-tip-lead-free-box-of-20

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/5...loading-brass-300-winchester-magnum-box-of-50

 

[Remmy700]

Totally agree with MudRunner, on my magnums I love Nosler brass. I have had about 10 300 wins over the last few years as it is one of my favorite calibers. I think it is one of the easier magnums to find a good load with. I have always had great luck with H1000 and I primarily shoot 208 ELD-M's now. In every gun so far it has been about identical loads. Always been in the 76 gr arena going anywhere from 76 to 76.8. That typically gets me the 3K I am looking for in velocities with the longer barrel guns. Running 76.4 now in my 22' proof setup and getting 2960. the 212 and 215s will be around that arena also concerning powder charge. If you need any help shoot me a message and I will shoot you my cell. Be glad to help you anyway I can.

 

[CMP70306]

I've been shooting the 212gr ELD-X for over a year now and have had great success using it with H1000. I settled on 77gr as it would get me above 3000 fps in a 30" barrel with my suppressor on.

I will admit I have gotten better performance with the ELDs than the Bergers, I probably shot at least 700 of the 215s but could not seem to get them any better than 0.5 to 0.75 MOA and I went from 74 up to 80+gr chasing a tighter node. The ELDs on the other hand routinely shoot well below 0.5 with the best around 0.2 MOA.

Additionally I started with Norma brass which was all that was availible at the time. It has worked well but I am switching over to Hornady when it dies as I only gained one or two more firings (5 or 6 total) before the necks split. At $1.03 a case for the Norma vs $0.57 a case for the Hornady it simply works better for me to just get the Hornady brass.