New to reloading - what to change first?

Boozer

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Just bought a reloading set-up, and was wondering something. Unless I'm the luckiest guy on earth, my first few reloads won't result in tiny one-hole groups. So after that happens, what do I change first? I'm working on a 30-06 rem 700. I have quite a few once fired remington brass, so I would like to try use it. I plan to do all recommended prep work to the brass, including sorting by weight and prepping primer pockets. After much research I will likely buy 1lb each of imr 4350, varget, and imr 4895. And I'm still not sure what bullets to use, but I think I'll start with Berger. As it will primarily be a hunting rifle.

When your load doesn't work, what do you start changing first? Seating depth? Powder, powder charge? Bullets?
 
Seating depth usually makes the most difference assuming it's a bullet the rifle likes. Some rifles don't like some bullets and you just have to go with another one, but if it doesn't hate the bullet you can usually tune it up by adjusting seating depth.
 
first of all get a log book then if the brass is once fired in your rifle neck size, trim sort, and do all of the prep you deem necessary. After that only use 1 brand of brass, keep the rest for different trials.
Now start with 1 bullet and 1 primer. Eg., Fed. brass + speer 180grn sp + cci standard primer set your seat depth to the book quote. Then choose a powder start with sug start load and load 5, increase by .5 grn and work up to max checking for preasure signs then log each load + group. Make a special note for the most accurate.
Now using the same brass, bullet and primer repeat your case prep and do the same with a different powder. Once you see witch powder is the most accurate you can work with different seat depths.
But, wait here is the good news, with each different bullet you get to do this all over again.
My fav rifle (a Sav. mod. 11 in 7rm), loves 150 grn sp's and etips. Works very good with 139grn and 140grn sp's. Shoots good with 175grn BUT no way can I find a load for 162 and 165 grn. Go figure.
Have fun:D
 
So, continuing to research this.... Just read the OCW method. Seems very systematic and scientific. Will likely try to "rough in" the seating depth first, the go for OCW, then fine tune the seating depth...
 
Seating depth can be a biggie, especially with some of the Berger VLDs. Here is a short article from our website that may help if you choose the VLD route: VLD: Making it Shoot | Berger Bullets. Another option is the Classic Hunter line of bullets which are designed for SAAMI spec applications and are usually easier to tune.

Once you pick a bullet you like, then you'll want to start playing with seating depths to see what the rifle likes and then adjust powder to find the best accuracy. I wish there was a shortcut but its basically trial and error.

The key word to always remember is consistency. You want as many factors as possible to be the same from one round to the next!
 
Not that you asked, but I will offer up a bit of extra wisdom: learn - practice - perfect the art of the slow gradual squeeze of that trigger. In fact when I'm at the range working on load research, before I push that safety forward, I will practice squeeze on a safed trigger about 5 times. Think of it like when you are on the golf green and you ghost practice your put before you address the ball.

I have found that I get a whole lot more "transparent truth" about a load when I put a lot of effort into having optimal squeeze habits. And another helpful trick is to shoot to 300 yards with no fewer than five shots. There is no truth in a 3 round group at 100 yards. And that's what you are looking for: truth.
 
what scope? how is the trigger? rem 700 long range?? i have loaded a lot of 30-06 ammo. i would load 49.5 50 and 50.5 of varget . 168 berger. 210M. .030 off the lands and go shoot.
 
So, continuing to research this.... Just read the OCW method. Seems very systematic and scientific. Will likely try to "rough in" the seating depth first, the go for OCW, then fine tune the seating depth...

Your onto something.
 
i always choose lapua brass first. then nosler . no case prep with either of those. .
 
Remember


consistency = accuracy

changing anything changes everything

what I mean by this is working up a load and changing anything like primer manufactures nullifies all dáta you previously had for that component combination get a journal and keep good notes. Start with commonly known good loads for your caliber a quick google search should help with this but make sure to check them against a reloading book to make sure they are safe. I have often found that matching the burn rate to the bullet weight makes major differences in accuracy but this is not always easy done the Searia book lists accuracy loads that may not be a bad place to start to get some bullet weight powder burn rate pairings that play well together
 
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