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<blockquote data-quote="RT2506" data-source="post: 1066775" data-attributes="member: 10178"><p>All this is good info but here is some that you usually don't find in loading books etc. </p><p>This comes from over 30 years of loading and hunting with said loads. NEVER set up hunting loads with the bullets jammed into the lands. I never set up a load with the bullets closer than ten thousands to the lands. If a bullet is jammed into the lands and you need to unload that round, like to climb into a tree stand, cross a fence etc. you can stick that bullet in the bore and dump your rifle action full of powder and your day is screwed. Been there and done that and have the T-shirt. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite11" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":rolleyes:" /></p><p></p><p>Always try to work up your loads in as close to the temperatures you will be hunting in if the temperatures are going to be really hot or cold. This does effect things. Sometimes going from mild temp say mid 60s to HOT 90/110* can mean a perfectly safe good load going to a blowing primer bolt locking load because the heat has caused the powder to burn different and raises the pressure. With the new extreme powders like some from Hodgdon this is not as much as a problem these days. </p><p></p><p>I have learned to find pretty good loads without doing a lot of costly experimenting by going to some loading manuals like Sierra and Nosler that list the most accurate powders with a given bullet weight and type. I have found that the suggested Accuracy loads in the Sierra manual are usually just that, very accurate, even with different brand bullets of the same make up, meaning using same cup and core type together or mono construction together. I always back of these loads about a grain and work up in half grain at a time loads to check for safety in my rifle. </p><p></p><p>One very important thing to learn is that no matter how accurate your rifle is and how accurate the load you just made may be in your rifle it will not be accurate if you can not shoot that rifle accurately. I can't tell you how many times I have been to the range with peoples rifles that "something is wrong with because it will not hit the side of a barn" to find that it would shoot under MOA all day. It would not hit the side of a barn because the person was a trigger jerking, flinching, close their eyes just before the rifle goes off, scared of the recoil shooter. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>Consistency means accuracy. Keep all your loading components the same meaning same case make, changing primer brand and type will make a BIG difference so only work with one at a time, even try to keep the same lot number of components the same. The way you size your cases full length or just neck size makes a difference. GET A BULLET COMPARATOR to use with your caliper to measure your cartridge over all length from the ogive of the bullet and not the tip of the bullet. Bullet tip to base can and does vary and will drive you nuts trying to figure out why you have different COAL and you have not touched the depth setting on the die. Base to the ogive usually does not vary with the same lot of bullets.</p><p></p><p>Welcome to the madness of reloading. Have fun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RT2506, post: 1066775, member: 10178"] All this is good info but here is some that you usually don't find in loading books etc. This comes from over 30 years of loading and hunting with said loads. NEVER set up hunting loads with the bullets jammed into the lands. I never set up a load with the bullets closer than ten thousands to the lands. If a bullet is jammed into the lands and you need to unload that round, like to climb into a tree stand, cross a fence etc. you can stick that bullet in the bore and dump your rifle action full of powder and your day is screwed. Been there and done that and have the T-shirt. :rolleyes: Always try to work up your loads in as close to the temperatures you will be hunting in if the temperatures are going to be really hot or cold. This does effect things. Sometimes going from mild temp say mid 60s to HOT 90/110* can mean a perfectly safe good load going to a blowing primer bolt locking load because the heat has caused the powder to burn different and raises the pressure. With the new extreme powders like some from Hodgdon this is not as much as a problem these days. I have learned to find pretty good loads without doing a lot of costly experimenting by going to some loading manuals like Sierra and Nosler that list the most accurate powders with a given bullet weight and type. I have found that the suggested Accuracy loads in the Sierra manual are usually just that, very accurate, even with different brand bullets of the same make up, meaning using same cup and core type together or mono construction together. I always back of these loads about a grain and work up in half grain at a time loads to check for safety in my rifle. One very important thing to learn is that no matter how accurate your rifle is and how accurate the load you just made may be in your rifle it will not be accurate if you can not shoot that rifle accurately. I can't tell you how many times I have been to the range with peoples rifles that "something is wrong with because it will not hit the side of a barn" to find that it would shoot under MOA all day. It would not hit the side of a barn because the person was a trigger jerking, flinching, close their eyes just before the rifle goes off, scared of the recoil shooter. :D Consistency means accuracy. Keep all your loading components the same meaning same case make, changing primer brand and type will make a BIG difference so only work with one at a time, even try to keep the same lot number of components the same. The way you size your cases full length or just neck size makes a difference. GET A BULLET COMPARATOR to use with your caliper to measure your cartridge over all length from the ogive of the bullet and not the tip of the bullet. Bullet tip to base can and does vary and will drive you nuts trying to figure out why you have different COAL and you have not touched the depth setting on the die. Base to the ogive usually does not vary with the same lot of bullets. Welcome to the madness of reloading. Have fun. [/QUOTE]
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