Read this advice at least TWICE! It si spot on!Brydog, you cannot go wrong with RCBS equipment starting out. If you haven't made the purchase yet, I STRONGLY recommend/suggest the RCBS Rockchucker press, especially when reloading for the 7mm RemMag. With the RCBS Rochucker press you will be capable of accurately reloading mostly any rifle cartridge out there. When you get your Nosler reloading manual, read the front section of the manual from page to page "BEFORE" you buy any components--bullets, primers, powder--so that you are not spending money needlessly; and buy more than one manual and read them; don't just look at the pictures!! I have written and suggested to people who are just starting out that it would be good if you could find an experienced reloader who can show you how to reload. I can tell you that finding someone who can be right there with you and walk you through the steps will be a whole lot easier and a whole lot "safer" for you. I cannot stress enough that you really do need/have to have a good working knowlege about the relationship between "bullet weight & powder selection & charge-primer" (more bullet weigh-powder charge) before you even start to reload. If you do not know this relationship, you start reloading and over-charge a fast burning rifle powder you can/will raise the pressures of your load to an unsafe level where you can/will destroy your rifle and injure yourself or someone standing next to you quite easily. Although it is important to know about twist and bullet selection, more than likely the rifle that you are reloading for (and I'm guessing here) is a factory rifle with a twist that will accommodate most mid-range bullets; by mid-range bullets I mean not extremely light or extremely heavy. Unless you are reloading for a custom built rifle, I think that worrying about twist rate of your barrel at the stage of reloading that you are at is getting way ahead of yourself. Again if you like to shoot and there is a local shooting range, I strongly suggest that you join the club and ask/look for an "experienced" (5-10 years) reloader who can show you the reloading process either on your equipment or theirs. I belong to a small club and know that if you went looking/asking for someone to help you get started you would have many many guys who would be more than willing to help you out and get started. Manuals are a good place to start, but manuals do not provide you with the hands-on experience and knowledge that will get you reloading safely and efficiently.
Al powders have a "burn rate" which tells you how "fast" the powder burns. Higher burn rate are mostly pistols, slower are usually rifles (mix then up and you have a MAJOR problem). Middle is looking at burn rates of the powders and then go for the one in the middle. The manuals get you at a safe starting point.Thank you very much for the info! I need to test, but people have told me it's most likely a 1:9.25. Where am I able to find what grain bullets I can run with my twist?
Also, what do you mean by "middle of the range" powder? Do I just choose 3 random powders to start loading or is it something in the manual? How to I identify a high vs. medium vs. low load?
Also, as far as seating depth, should I start loading it so the round is at the maximum overall length listed in the manual? And then from there do I start seating it shorter or longer.. how do I know what to do?
Rifling Twist Rate
By Chuck Hawks
Inside of a rifle barrel there are spiral grooves, called rifling. These are intended to spin the bullet to keep it stable (point on), without wobbling or tumbling, during its flight to the target. The tighter the spiral grooves, the faster the bullet spins. The tightness of the spiral is called the "twist rate."
The rate of twist is expressed as one turn in so many inches (i.e. 1 in 10" or 1:10). The caliber, length, shape and velocity of a bullet determine its optimum twist rate. The standard twist for a rifle barrel is designed to stabilize the range of bullets and velocities normally associates with that particular cartridge out to very long range. Spinning a bullet markedly too slow or too fast is detrimental to accuracy.
It takes less twist to stabilize a given bullet at high velocity than at low velocity. At the same velocity in the same caliber, longer bullets require faster twist rates than shorter bullets.
A faster twist increases pressure, barrel wear and also the strain on the bullet jacket, which can actually come apart if spun too fast. This particularly applies to frangible varmint bullets, which have very thin jackets, fired at high velocity in very fast twist barrels, such as the 1 in 7" twist barrels supplied on many .223/5.56mn AR-15 type rifles.