hey new to this forum. i had a tilka t3 lite with a nikkon 6x24x50 scoppe and i just got a brand new savage .338 lapua model 111. so i just had a couple questions i am going to loc tite the base for scope mounts i was wondering what would be good rings/scope that could handle the recoil of this? i was thinking of using the nikkon or maybe a leupold mark 4 i want to get into long range shooting so i want a good scope. also any reccomendation how barrel break in for this riffle ? 5 shots clean after every shot then do 5shots and clean after every 5? would that work i heard 50 rounds is barrell break in. thanks for the help.. im reading everything i can on this calibre to learn as much as i can but not finding much on scope/rings.
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New here and new rifle!!!!
- Thread starter kory
- Start date
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Welcome to LRH and enjoy!
This site has members full of knowledge and hands on experience and one of the best way to find them is the custom query on the top right hand corner. Please take no offense on this suggestion as I find no better time to introduce you to a very useful tool but yet very under utilized.
Like any other search, your result will vary base on your query entry ... give it a go and you'll be surprise of how much information is out there.
Good luck!
Cheers!
This site has members full of knowledge and hands on experience and one of the best way to find them is the custom query on the top right hand corner. Please take no offense on this suggestion as I find no better time to introduce you to a very useful tool but yet very under utilized.
Like any other search, your result will vary base on your query entry ... give it a go and you'll be surprise of how much information is out there.
Good luck!
Cheers!
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
STOP ... don't do that. A clean, dry thread properly torqued should not require loc-tite. If you must use it, use the low strength purple and apply just a drop and only on the top threads just under the cap of the screw before properly torquing the screw in place. Don't cover the entire threaded surface.
Go to the Bartlein web site and read their outline of barrel break-in.
The scope you choose should compliment the type of shooting you intend to do and the rail and rings should compliment the scope.
Choose your scope, then your base and rings.
I'd recommend Burris "Z" rings with inserts properly sized for the scope you select.
bullfrog
Well-Known Member
I properly torqued the bases on my 338 edge without loctite and it lasted about 50 shots before they came loose. A little medium strength loctite and she has been good to go for 2 years. This was with oversized 8-40 screws. The worst part was the sinking feeling you get when your rifle starts throwing shots for no reason. Thankfully it was an easy fix. I do not want to start a debate just wanted you to know what did and didn't work for me.
I prefer the burris signature zee rings with the inserts. As for the scope. Buy the best you can afford. The only regrets I've had with scopes was not buying the one I wanted to save money only to end up getting it eventually and costing me more money. Buy once, cry once.
I prefer the burris signature zee rings with the inserts. As for the scope. Buy the best you can afford. The only regrets I've had with scopes was not buying the one I wanted to save money only to end up getting it eventually and costing me more money. Buy once, cry once.
Kenny0709
Well-Known Member
Welcome Kory! You've found a great site here with a wealth of information.
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
The screws are small and it's very easy to create a condition where the screw becomes so tight that when you attempt to remove it the screw head simply breaks off. Now .. you have a real problem. I usually try proper torque and check the screws after each day at the range or in the field. If I find evidence that they're not holding I check to see if all the parts are properly aligned. If the screws aren't tightened in alternating sequence there is always a chance of a slight misalignment of the mounts that contributes to movement between mating surfaces.
If that fails, then I try just a drop of loc-tite (purple) or similar mild locking agent to the underside of the screw head to prevent it from finding its own way out of the hole.
The only way I know of to appreciate this cautious approach is to drown your threads in red loc-tite and screw them down. A week later try to take them out. It's a good learning experience coupled with disappointment and frustration.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
I use blue loctite on my scope mounts, action screws and scope rings they never come loose and I never have any problem removing them. If I do remove them I clean the old loctite off or use new screws on the small base and ring screws so I don't risk cross threading because of the old loctite causing alignment issues... red loctite is for permanent fasteners like internal engine components. It is not recommended but I have used it and removed it with pb blaster and I let it sit in direct august heat for several hours but this was on a compound bow riser.
I loctite base screws with blue Loctite. I don't put Loctite on the screw threads, I put it (a little) around the outside of the screw head with a toothpick. I have had a base mount come loose before and it is a pain because you have to remove the scope to get to it.
