Neck Sizing Vs. Full Length Sizing and Neck Tension

Tiny Tim

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Jan 26, 2015
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945
Just purchased the head space comparator set from Hornady at Midsouth. Lucky, I guess, it was in stock. Natchez and others were sold out......stuff sure is hard to find these days......can't believe Powder Valley says powder may get worse, and there are no primers in
sight until a year or more......Will trade Large Magnum Rifle Primers for Gold. 1 Primer, 1 ounce of gold!😜 LOL
1 mansion with built in shooting range for a whole brick!
They are a great and invaluable investment. You will learn much!
 

Mike Matteson

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Jun 26, 2017
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1,228
I check my case every time for growth. Learn the hard away not checking case length. Over pressure a 25/06 one time and had to get a new bolt or ejector. Case trimming isn't that hard with a Forester set up. I cut my case shorter to allow for growth, and only trimmed when they to long again. So my case were at different lengths. I am up grading to a Gen 3 here shortly. On order, just waiting for it to arrive. At that time I will check and cut the case length change every time by placing the case into the Gen 3 and trim if needed. Forester make a cutter and beveling head in all in one operation. The Gen 3 uses those cutter heads for their machine. Looks to be easy to change out the cutter/beveling head for different calibers or cases. Gen 3 system allows for a set length for that pacific case for that rifle. The stop can be changed out and another stop place in to a different case. That way you case is always at the same length every time. This setup is part of applied tension on your bullet is the same for each case provided you do the other work require to make that happen.
 

brant89

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Jun 13, 2012
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342
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Southern Michigan
I also check case length after every firing. On my precision guns I usually check 10-20 cases per 50 and if any are close to the limit they all get trimmed so each batch of 50 are the same number of trimmings and firings. On my 5.56 I check every single case and trim individually as needed since they aren't on the same firing schedule and don't need to be too precise as long as they go bang safely.
 

Veteran

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Mar 10, 2021
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468
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Trimming brass is basically the worst part of shooting. I'm also located in Michigan and would be willing to meet you for that gold...
Oh Senor, you meesunderstood me. I said I wanna get an oz. of gold for eeeach primer, and I want a mansion on the hill for a breek.
Yo Soy un bandido reloader de Tejas y Mexico.:) I already have my large magnum rifle primers thank goodness.
I just struggle staying up with the powder, but I know lots are the other way around. A leetle gold, she solves everything, no?
 

brant89

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Jun 13, 2012
Messages
342
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Southern Michigan
I’m in south central Michigan. I have a 400yd range in my backyard and two fields next door that I can shoot 900yd and 1100yd. Mostly I shoot at home.
 

Veteran

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Mar 10, 2021
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Michigan
You have the mansion with a built in shooting range already. I drive about 2 hours to shoot, and its a 300 yard range.
When I go to Texas then I have 22,000 acres on a deer lease there, so no problem at the ranch. But its a 2 day drive and only 2-3 times a year. I've just about got my .338 LM making ragged hole groups at 100 yards, so I'm gonna try 500 next and then on out.

I still got some work to do with this TC Encore .300 Win Mag. I gotta get some more tools and do some more analyzing. I already installed the shot shell shim in the forearm as was suggested on another thread. Now I gotta measure head space and shoulder bumps, and see if I can then full length resize past 3 times on my brass without a head case separation. Work to do.
 

Starlite

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Dec 8, 2019
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692
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New Brunswick Canada
Ok!! Not that I want to rehash this brass movement discussion but; I was of the belief that not all brass movement was from the same place. Magnums from one area and non-magnums from another. Is this not the case?
 

Mike Matteson

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Jun 26, 2017
Messages
1,228
You have the mansion with a built in shooting range already. I drive about 2 hours to shoot, and its a 300 yard range.
When I go to Texas then I have 22,000 acres on a deer lease there, so no problem at the ranch. But its a 2 day drive and only 2-3 times a year. I've just about got my .338 LM making ragged hole groups at 100 yards, so I'm gonna try 500 next and then on out.

I still got some work to do with this TC Encore .300 Win Mag. I gotta get some more tools and do some more analyzing. I already installed the shot shell shim in the forearm as was suggested on another thread. Now I gotta measure head space and shoulder bumps, and see if I can then full length resize past 3 times on my brass without a head case separation. Work to do.
Since you are shooting a single shot rifle. Try to only neck size about 3/4 of the neck. Will need to see how it chambers. That what I did by using a 300 Win Mag neck sizing die on my 308 N.Mag case. It extend the life of my brass until the primer pocket give up.
Look at Peterson Brass. Check out the 300 WM Long Brass. This probable cut down the movement of the brass. They did a explanation on the 300 WM Long Brass.
While writing this blog a light came in my head, and that doesn't happen to often. I see a different way to do my other belted mags. Now I will have to see how it works out. As they say "I been thinking" "That won't get you to far" . We'll see.
 

brant89

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Jun 13, 2012
Messages
342
Location
Southern Michigan
Ok!! Not that I want to rehash this brass movement discussion but; I was of the belief that not all brass movement was from the same place. Magnums from one area and non-magnums from another. Is this not the case?
I don't have a lot of experience case separations as I am pretty careful to avoid them, but it's my understanding that most cases will get thin and separate just above the case head simply because the case head is much harder than the rest of the case so there is a discontinuity in that area. That being said, I have experienced several case separations this past year, some even separated in my FL die. All were LC18 5.56 brass with about 3-4 firings, and all the cases separated right at the body/shoulder junction. I'm more inclined to think there is something wrong with that lot of brass, but it does provide some evidence that brass could separate pretty much anywhere. I think the main takeaway from the brass migration discussion is this: if your brass is getting longer and requiring a trim often, then it is getting thin somewhere, and that's not good. I once heard a general rule that brass should be scrapped after 3-4 trimmings (not firings) to prevent case separation, and I generally abide by this.
 

Veteran

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Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
468
Location
Michigan
Since you are shooting a single shot rifle. Try to only neck size about 3/4 of the neck. Will need to see how it chambers. That what I did by using a 300 Win Mag neck sizing die on my 308 N.Mag case. It extend the life of my brass until the primer pocket give up.
Look at Peterson Brass. Check out the 300 WM Long Brass. This probable cut down the movement of the brass. They did a explanation on the 300 WM Long Brass.
While writing this blog a light came in my head, and that doesn't happen to often. I see a different way to do my other belted mags. Now I will have to see how it works out. As they say "I been thinking" "That won't get you to far" . We'll see.
Yep I have all Peterson Brass, and I do only neck size about 3/4 down from the mouth. I am gonna have to FL size this next time anyway though because the cases are getting hard to pull out an eject, they need to be reshaped and downsized, so I will get some case head measurements and make sure I only bump the shoulder .002.
 

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