My 25 SS build thread

codyadams

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Jan 7, 2015
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Location
Southwest Wyoming
As some of you know, I make a build thread for every rifle I put together, mainly so I can review it in the future and have a form of documentation of the process. So here is the newest one for me!!

To my knowledge, there isn't a 25 SS yet (25 sst and 25 Sherman is all to my knowledge), so I think I'll try it on for size. I am getting towards the tail end of my wife's build (7 Max), so hopefully I can start this one pretty soon. This is more of a budget build as it is starting with an older left hand savage short action. I'm not as "particular" as my wonderful wife!!

Right now I have a plain Jane Savage 11, pre accu-trigger blind mag wood stocked rifle chambered in 22-250. I will get a magnum bolt head from PTG, and order a 7 or 7.5 twist 25 cal barrel from someone, haven't decided yet.

The barrel will be 20-22 inches, I plan on eventually running it supressed. It will likely be a steel fluted barrel, somewhere around a medium palma or remington varmint contour, maybe a shade lighter. My goal is to have it under 10 lbs ready to hunt, without the supressor. Being as I am going to put a magnum diameter cartridge in a small shank savage, I am leaning towards having it put together as a shouldered barrel vs. the barrel nut system. No worries at all that way.

Eventually, I plan on putting it in an XLR magnesium folding chassis. I want this thing handy for packing into the back country, I think the slight extra weight (5ish oz.) of the folding adapter is well worth the compactness when in the pack, especially if it has a can. A folding manners was a thought, but they are significantly heavier.

This will primarily be a high country mule deer thumper, with occasional pronghorn on the menu. I plan on running the 131 ace's, as well as the 117 PVA Cayuga's. End results will determine which I stick with.

I think this will be a fun build. I can start shooting with under $1000 total investment in the rifle, and build on it with time. It will be a hot rod too, I'm guessing 3150 with the 131's and the right powder, even with the short barrel. The 117's? Not even sure, maybe 3350? Should whallop critters nicely!!

More to come in the future!!
 
Whatcha thinking for optics and mounting hardware? Guys I've spoken to tend to make this an afterthought, when it is part of the system and can make or break an intended weight limit. I know you have already thought this through, but newer guys thinking of a build may have not. Reading these build threads can help them in those aspects.
 
Sounds like a nice build. I'm really enjoying my 25-284 and the 131 BJ. With R26 I got them going 3151 FPS. Don't overlook the 128 Hammer as a viable big game bullet. Think it needs a 7 twist. I've been tempted to order some, but my barrel is 1-7.25". That 25 SS is going to be a lot of fun!
 
Whatcha thinking for optics and mounting hardware? Guys I've spoken to tend to make this an afterthought, when it is part of the system and can make or break an intended weight limit. I know you have already thought this through, but newer guys thinking of a build may have not. Reading these build threads can help them in those aspects.
I'm gonna bed an aluminum 20moa rail to the reciever, warn mountain tech rings most likely, and not totally sure on scope yet, but I alloted 30 oz or less for that, top end magnification I want around 20ish. From my experience shooting big game with somewhat simple reticles, much over 20 doesn't really do a whole lot for ya accept make it a little more challenging to spot impacts. If I was using my reticle for ranging, if it was gonna be a varmint rifle, mostly punching paper or something like that it may be useful. But even my elk I shot at 887 this year using my March 2.5-25, I had my magnification on either 18x or 20x.
 
I would think with the 117 in a 20-22" barrel will be screaming. Very interested to see your results with those billets as I'm not familiar with them. Are they designed to shed their nose like hammers. Or do they act more like a Barnes? Didn't see much of a description on PVA website.
 
I would think with the 117 in a 20-22" barrel will be screaming. Very interested to see your results with those billets as I'm not familiar with them. Are they designed to shed their nose like hammers. Or do they act more like a Barnes? Didn't see much of a description on PVA website.
My cousin used the 126 .277 on a cow elk recently, out of his 25" .270 Sherman they were clocking 3425, and the shot was at 275 yards. No bullet recovered, but there was two significant exit wounds, I would guess from fragments of the nose. Only a sample of one so far, but I will be using the 170 7mm in my wife's 7 max, and will have a better idea of performance next season.
 
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Necking down SS brass or forming 25SST?
What is your hoped gain going SS vs SST? Just a one off?
Cheers
 
I have a 26" 1:7.5" 25SST.
Running a 131 @ 3247fps suppressed with a fairly mild load of H1000. Had them up to nearly 3400.
I also run the 121 HH at 3348 suppressed. Again, with a fairly mild.load of H1000.

Just had it out yesterday shooting 880, 1000, and 1060. Super flat, accurate as heck, and hits like a lightning strike. 5.3MIL at 1000.

The 25SST would be plenty if you want one less step during loading. Feeds super smooth, no fire forming, correct headstamped brass, and only about 50fps less than an SS would get you. You can make that up with powder choice. I have found 120fps between my 6.5SSs 26" and 20" barrels with exact same loads. So I would think similar velocity differences in the 25SST. 3247 should get 3125ish in a 20". You can probably speed that up with powder choice or hotter loads. I can get 3100+ in my 20" 6.5SS with 144 LR Hybs if I lean on it w. N565.
 
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This is getting on the back burner as I'm finishing up my wife's rifle first, so this will start next year. I may do what your saying lance and just do the 25 sst for simplicity, not totally sure yet. I am also throwing around the idea of shortening the barrel a little, and having it as a pistol instead, I suppose the only change would be not putting the stock on the magnesium chassis.....save a small amount of weight, but mainly just make it unique. Not sure, it's still a bit out.
 
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