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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Muzzle brake cleaning
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 2043456" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p><strong>Those that have muzzle brakes know that cleaning is not always easy depending on the design and port size. Leaving them dirty, can effect their performance. The amount depends on how dirty they are. it is sometimes hard to see the performance degrade but recoil test have proven that it does. The dirtier the brake is the harder for it to get rid of the gas efficiently.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>The advantage to removing it to clean is to also clean the threads and reapply the anti seize for future removal, and easy cleaning. If you own a sonic cleaner, use the brass cleaning solution and you will be amazed at how clean it comes out is 8 to 10 Minutes.(Looks like it was just machined).</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Before I remove a timed brake, I place a small center punch mark between the brake and the barrel shoulder on the bottom of the barrel. after cleaning and reapplying the anti seize I use this match mark for retiming. some think it will not time the same, but if the barrel shoulder and back of the muzzle brake are square it will go back the same way it came off and be tight.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>My normal process it to take the brake off and start the sonic cleaning then start the rifle cleaning. when the rifle is clean, I remove the brake and rinse it in cold water (To remove the sonic cleaner fluid) </strong></p><p><strong>then spray it down with WD 40 to remove the water, wipe it down and install it using the anti seize and the match mark. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>No more harsh solvents or Q tips for small round ports. the side ports are easier but they need to be removed to prevent them from becoming corroded to the threads from the bore solvents and becoming locked on for ever.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Just a hint/trick for keeping everything in the best working order.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>J E CUSTOM</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 2043456, member: 2736"] [B]Those that have muzzle brakes know that cleaning is not always easy depending on the design and port size. Leaving them dirty, can effect their performance. The amount depends on how dirty they are. it is sometimes hard to see the performance degrade but recoil test have proven that it does. The dirtier the brake is the harder for it to get rid of the gas efficiently. The advantage to removing it to clean is to also clean the threads and reapply the anti seize for future removal, and easy cleaning. If you own a sonic cleaner, use the brass cleaning solution and you will be amazed at how clean it comes out is 8 to 10 Minutes.(Looks like it was just machined). Before I remove a timed brake, I place a small center punch mark between the brake and the barrel shoulder on the bottom of the barrel. after cleaning and reapplying the anti seize I use this match mark for retiming. some think it will not time the same, but if the barrel shoulder and back of the muzzle brake are square it will go back the same way it came off and be tight. My normal process it to take the brake off and start the sonic cleaning then start the rifle cleaning. when the rifle is clean, I remove the brake and rinse it in cold water (To remove the sonic cleaner fluid) then spray it down with WD 40 to remove the water, wipe it down and install it using the anti seize and the match mark. No more harsh solvents or Q tips for small round ports. the side ports are easier but they need to be removed to prevent them from becoming corroded to the threads from the bore solvents and becoming locked on for ever. Just a hint/trick for keeping everything in the best working order. J E CUSTOM[/B] [/QUOTE]
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Muzzle brake cleaning
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