Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Mounting Bases
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Eaglet" data-source="post: 355118" data-attributes="member: 3756"><p>MR, </p><p> </p><p>Johnson Paste I have used a bunch and won't let you down.</p><p>Kiwi "shoe polish" I have never used but did buy one to test it. I know many folks use it and I have read many great reports.</p><p>J-B Weld as also mentioned above will work very good.</p><p> </p><p>I don't scuff the bottoms of my bases.</p><p> </p><p>I make sure all surfaces are clean including the bolts and all treads.</p><p>using kiwi or whatever, apply to all surfaces, base, and areas where base goes and... just put on all top of action. Buff it a bit, with paper towel making sure is even all over. Kiwi and Johnson Paste even when you don't see it it'll be protecting you after buffing, just don't over do it.</p><p>Using <strong>modeling clay</strong> build a dam around your working area leaving a bit of room to work. I use cotton swabs to clean the excess and also do not forget to check the inside of the action just in case you got some epoxy there.</p><p> </p><p>I <strong>never separate</strong> the base from the action. At about 10 hours I tight a bit the screws I left loose to prevent stress, when cured, I take one screw at a time and use red finger nail paint that wives use, put it on each screw and do a finger tight, one at a time until your finished. If you have a torque wrench torque them all to specified inch/pounds. </p><p> </p><p>Not only will it prevent stress on the action and or the base, but it acts like a suction cup. It'll be going no where. If you ever need to get rid of the rifle and you want to keep the base it will come off with some little tapping after removing the screws. Is not permanent but it's strong.</p><p> </p><p>My 300 Rum has this job done to it, it goes every where and no change of zero. Works great. My 338 Edge also has been done to it.</p><p> </p><p>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><div style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 12px"><strong>These instructions came with my farrel 20 moa base for LA Remington.</strong></span></div><p>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><div style="text-align: center"><img src="http://i47.tinypic.com/6zvkol.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></div></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Eaglet, post: 355118, member: 3756"] MR, Johnson Paste I have used a bunch and won't let you down. Kiwi "shoe polish" I have never used but did buy one to test it. I know many folks use it and I have read many great reports. J-B Weld as also mentioned above will work very good. I don't scuff the bottoms of my bases. I make sure all surfaces are clean including the bolts and all treads. using kiwi or whatever, apply to all surfaces, base, and areas where base goes and... just put on all top of action. Buff it a bit, with paper towel making sure is even all over. Kiwi and Johnson Paste even when you don't see it it'll be protecting you after buffing, just don't over do it. Using [B]modeling clay[/B] build a dam around your working area leaving a bit of room to work. I use cotton swabs to clean the excess and also do not forget to check the inside of the action just in case you got some epoxy there. I [B]never separate[/B] the base from the action. At about 10 hours I tight a bit the screws I left loose to prevent stress, when cured, I take one screw at a time and use red finger nail paint that wives use, put it on each screw and do a finger tight, one at a time until your finished. If you have a torque wrench torque them all to specified inch/pounds. Not only will it prevent stress on the action and or the base, but it acts like a suction cup. It'll be going no where. If you ever need to get rid of the rifle and you want to keep the base it will come off with some little tapping after removing the screws. Is not permanent but it's strong. My 300 Rum has this job done to it, it goes every where and no change of zero. Works great. My 338 Edge also has been done to it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [CENTER][SIZE=3][B]These instructions came with my farrel 20 moa base for LA Remington.[/B][/SIZE][/CENTER] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [CENTER][IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/6zvkol.png[/IMG][/CENTER] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Mounting Bases
Top