Model 70 safety problem

If you have the safety "fixed" to work with the Timney, it will no longer work with the original. Just a heads-up. Not a thing wrong with the Timney Trigger, no Kool-Aid there. Now, if you'd have bought a Jewell you have drank the Kool-Aid.
Shortgrass, I just put the original trigger back in my rifle and the safety operates like it should. I am not sure I want to modify my safety to match the trigger. You mentioned that you had some triggers. Are they new? I don't want to install used parts to a the rifle. I hope to get it back to a consistent and smooth 3Lb trigger like it was for many years. PM with price if you want to part with one.
 
I had the same thing happen to my model 70 and after emailing Timney, they sent me instructions similar to what Frog posted. I don't remember exactly what they said but regardless it was more then I wanted to mess with. I dropped it off at a gunsmith and he had it fixed in no time.
 
Red, the triggers I have are take-offs, sorry. Check with Midwest Gun Works, maybe they have new. The triggers I have were replaced with Timneys or Jewels.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone seen a "worn out" M70 trigger ? What is to "wear". As bulletproof as a 98 Mauser or 03 Springfield trigger.
I have never seen one worn out. Sometimes the return spring can need replacing, or the over travel screw and/or lock nuts. But the OEM can and will never equal the 'tune' a good aftermarket trigger can be brought to.
 
There would be no use in "taking measurements, before and after", each is a hand fit situation. Go to far, and you are SOL needing a new firing pin. The only ones to be found are at Midwest Gun Works, and they want to do the install, they won't send you the firing pin. Tubbs offers a replacement, but you are into another "hand fit and finish" situation. It's a 'speed lock' pin, besides, and 99% of the time the speed lock does more harm the good in the accuracy department. I am a gunsmith, a school trained one, with 30yrs of bench experience......

If the safety won't go on, the cocking piece is too far to the rear, right? If it is to far forward, the safety goes on, but the cocking piece is not lifted off the sear by the safety.

This can be fixed by cutting some off the trigger sear. At some point, the firing pin fall is too short. How do I know when that point is?
 
Has anyone seen a "worn out" M70 trigger ? What is to "wear". As bulletproof as a 98 Mauser or 03 Springfield trigger.
In my limited experience, worn out isn't necessarily the issue. M70 triggers can rock side to side...that is basically ok at 4-5 lbs. It can be safe probably, but that will cause an irregular break. I got mine really good, but it was annoying at 2-2.5lbs. Some pulls crisp, some had creep, some ahhh....replaced it with the Timney and every pull is crisp 2.25 lbs.
 
In my limited experience, worn out isn't necessarily the issue. M70 triggers can rock side to side...that is basically ok at 4-5 lbs. It can be safe probably, but that will cause an irregular break. I got mine really good, but it was annoying at 2-2.5lbs. Some pulls crisp, some had creep, some ahhh....replaced it with the Timney and every pull is crisp 2.25 lbs.
Bingo! It rocks back and forth and gives very irregular release. Just over two pounds one time and over four pounds later. Replacement seemed to be the quickest way to a better trigger. I have been wrong before and will be wrong in the future.
 
If it's rocking side to side it can only be caused the pivot hole or pin being worn.

Easy to fix.

253720.jpg
 
If the safety won't go on, the cocking piece is too far to the rear, right? If it is to far forward, the safety goes on, but the cocking piece is not lifted off the sear by the safety.

This can be fixed by cutting some off the trigger sear. At some point, the firing pin fall is too short. How do I know when that point is?
You have it backwards, the cocking piece is too far forward, not allowing the safety to engage and cam it to the rear off of the sear. When you activate the safety, it should cam the cocking piece (and firing pin it is connected to) to the rear by .020" to .025". If the sear is holding the cocking piece to far to the rear for the safety to move the firing pin to the rear it is not a safe condition. Then you might remove some material from the sear so the safety engages and moves the firing pin to the rear the amount it is supposed to. When fitting, you should be removing a few thou at a time to avoid over cutting. It's file and stone work!
 
You have it backwards, the cocking piece is too far forward, not allowing the safety to engage and cam it to the rear off of the sear. When you activate the safety, it should cam the cocking piece (and firing pin it is connected to) to the rear by .020" to .025". If the sear is holding the cocking piece to far to the rear for the safety to move the firing pin to the rear it is not a safe condition. Then you might remove some material from the sear so the safety engages and moves the firing pin to the rear the amount it is supposed to. When fitting, you should be removing a few thou at a time to avoid over cutting. It's file and stone work!

In the OP's case, the safety cannot be engaged because the cocking piece is not held far enough to the rear, by the sear, right?

(Reread your post) OK, yea, my words were jumbled in my first post, thanks for the correction. Over fitting causes the firing pin stroke to shorten, right? Do you run out of firing cocking distance or cause a different timing issue first?
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top