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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
MOA vs. inches question
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<blockquote data-quote="Guest" data-source="post: 56816"><p>Beluebow</p><p></p><p>You've been given some good data here....but since you're new...it's somewhat "kornfusing" I'd say! So...as they say in the US Army...."Let's do it by the numbers!"</p><p></p><p>I don't work with Zeiss scopes much; if it were a Leupold with target knobs...it would be more simple probably. So here's what I do:</p><p></p><p>I have a Leupold 3.5x14x50MM w/target knobs and each click is worth 1/4 MOA. I zero ALL MY RIFLES at 200 yds. This is my FOUNDATION ZERO! The tgt knobs have 3 Allen screws which can be loosened so as to be able to rotate the "barrel" and once I'm zeroed at 200 I loosen the 3 Allen screws and move the barrel (which is scribed with numbers and index marks in MOA and those inbetween are movements of 1/4 MOA) to "0". I then go to each yard line and zero and I write down the zeros for each yardline. You must have a FOUNDATION ZERO first off which to work from! With your 300 Win Mag shooting the Accubonds of 180 grs. you should need somewhere in the neighborhood of and additional 8 clicks or 2 MOA movement to be on at 300 yds. Basically...what I do, if I estimate the distance to a whitetail to be 300 yds. I just put the horizontal wire at or near the top of the back and I'll have a dead buck as that bullet will drop somewhere between 5-7" at 300 yds. </p><p></p><p>Drop charts are fine....but "THEY AIN'T UTOPHIA" because of varying degrees of barrel harmonics involved. One barrel may exit the bullet on a down node and another the up node of vibration. So it's highly necessary to shoot a rifle and then record your ACTUAL CHANGES/ZEROS for it. Ballistic charts ARE NOT FINITE...in my opinion!</p><p></p><p>Wish you luck....and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Guest, post: 56816"] Beluebow You've been given some good data here....but since you're new...it's somewhat "kornfusing" I'd say! So...as they say in the US Army...."Let's do it by the numbers!" I don't work with Zeiss scopes much; if it were a Leupold with target knobs...it would be more simple probably. So here's what I do: I have a Leupold 3.5x14x50MM w/target knobs and each click is worth 1/4 MOA. I zero ALL MY RIFLES at 200 yds. This is my FOUNDATION ZERO! The tgt knobs have 3 Allen screws which can be loosened so as to be able to rotate the "barrel" and once I'm zeroed at 200 I loosen the 3 Allen screws and move the barrel (which is scribed with numbers and index marks in MOA and those inbetween are movements of 1/4 MOA) to "0". I then go to each yard line and zero and I write down the zeros for each yardline. You must have a FOUNDATION ZERO first off which to work from! With your 300 Win Mag shooting the Accubonds of 180 grs. you should need somewhere in the neighborhood of and additional 8 clicks or 2 MOA movement to be on at 300 yds. Basically...what I do, if I estimate the distance to a whitetail to be 300 yds. I just put the horizontal wire at or near the top of the back and I'll have a dead buck as that bullet will drop somewhere between 5-7" at 300 yds. Drop charts are fine....but "THEY AIN'T UTOPHIA" because of varying degrees of barrel harmonics involved. One barrel may exit the bullet on a down node and another the up node of vibration. So it's highly necessary to shoot a rifle and then record your ACTUAL CHANGES/ZEROS for it. Ballistic charts ARE NOT FINITE...in my opinion! Wish you luck....and MERRY CHRISTMAS!! [/QUOTE]
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