Mitutoyo Calipers worth it?

Trickymissfit, would you go with this one over the mitutoyo i posted a link to earlier? Brown & Sharpe 00590091 Digital Caliper, Stainless Steel, Battery Powered, Inch/Metric, 0-6" Range, +/-0.001" Accuracy, 0.0005" Resolution, Meets DIN 862 Specifications: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific A 4" caliper wont work for my needs, measureing the base to shoulder length of a 300 RUM using the hornady insert thing is pretty long. :rolleyes:

I have the next one better than that one, and B&S calipers are pretty good. I think that one and mine use the same encoder package, but mine reads out to one tenth (not needed here). I think you'd be fine with them. Some Brown & Sharpes come with an additional plug on the side to hook into a storage device (mine does), and when used right this is a nice addition. You simply setup the zero on a nominal number your after and it'll store all the variations you measure.

The Stoney Point gauges are a little on the long side, and your probably right about the 4" not being long enough. For what it's worth, I hate the Starrett analog calipers (dial type). They're just a pain to reset the zero to the 12 oclock position. The Mitutoyos are the easiest, and you can do it in about a minute. That's one single advantage the digital ones have over the others as you can reset the zero very easilly.

I find that I grab a pair of Starretts (digital) for use most of the time. Mostly because they're close by. But the B&S to me are just as good.
gary
 
So between the mitutoyo and the B&S which would you choose? Pro's, con's for each? They are almost identical price wise.
 
So between the mitutoyo and the B&S which would you choose? Pro's, con's for each? They are almost identical price wise.


keep in mind that I've never owned a pair of digital Mitutoyos, but doubt there's much difference between them. I like the way you can disconnect the battery on the Starretts. But I do like the feel of the Brown & Sharpes (they feel better in my hands). But on the opposite side I like the way the part feels inside the jaws of the Starretts a slight bit better than most, but on the otherhand I like the way the part feels in the Mitutoyo dial caliper better than any of the others. Knowing Mitutoyo's build quality, and they have similar costs. I think I'd probably go the the Mitutoyos. Still I doubt anyone would hardly notice the difference between the three I mentioned. You can also add Fowlers in there and I did get the chance to use an Interrapid for about two weeks. Fowlers are just as accurate as the others, but seem to be a little tough on batteries (I've owned or used several pairs over the years, but they were all larger sized (8" thru 24"). Onething I'd really be interested in with the Mitutoyos is how there battery pack is done. If it has a screw in plug like Fowlers, I'd avoid them. Eventually you'll loose that little end cap. I've probably lost four or five of them over the years. That's the one single thing I like about the Starretts. I have one pair of digital calipers (can't remember the brand name) that you have to remove some very small screws to change the battery. If you drop the screw you may never find it!
gary
 
I think i am going to go with the mitutoyo, i am 95% sure i convinced my Dad that we NEED one :D. I could sell you a car if you came in looking for some fishing hooks.:D:D:cool:
 
Well i ordered the mitutoyo's today from amazon, their price was $118.??. should get them in a couple days.
 
Doubt you'll have any buyer's remorse - they are awesome calipers. I have a set, and they are kind of like the first really high-end scope I bought: when it comes it is fun to play with, but after using it for 6 months you pick up your old cheap one and wonder how you ever thought it was good enough.
 
Got them on tuesday and have been comparing...... these are awesome! The difference in quality is amazing! I measured the flex, when it is set so it slides easiest, it has .0015" of flex, when it is tight but still movable, .0005". Im pleased.
 
Since i have been extending my shooting distances i feel i need to take my reloading up a notch and upgrade from my cheap ($35) calipers to a mitutoyo, specifically this one Mitutoyo ABSOLUTE 500-196-20 Digital Caliper, Stainless Steel, Battery Powered, Inch/Metric, 0-6" Range, +/-0.001" Accuracy, 0.0005" Resolution: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific i want to know if it will be worth it to buy the cheaper mitutoyo, or if you have to jump to the $250 models to notice a difference in quality from the cheap $40-$20 calipers. Thanks

Riley....

In order of revelance and quality, price notwithstanding....

L.S. Starrett, Athol Mass.
Mitutoyo, Osaka, Japan
Brown and Sharp
Fred Fowler

If I were you, I'd get a 6" pair (don't know why they call them pairs but they do, maybe because they have a fixed and moveable jaw) of LSS dial calipers in brushed stainless. I believe you can get them for around 110 bucks. Those are my go to calipers in the shop. The rack is covered, the dial is settable for absolute repetitive measurements (like you want to '0' at a case length and compare subsequent cases.... Plus the rack extends out the back of the caliper body so if you add a depth indicating base, the caliper becomes a dial depth micrometer. I usr that all the time too. Want to check your set primer depth? Use the depth gage acessory.

I like analog calipers and mikes. I have digital, direct read but I like the analog dial ones better but thats my preference.

Second choice would be Mititoyo. I remember when Mititoyo was first imported to this country back in the mid 60's. We all laughed at the Japanese junk and it was a bit crude, but with the advent of ISO standards and stringent QC. Mititoyo is just as good as LSS or B&S today.

Third would be Brown and Sharp. Lots of B&S precision tools today are made in Switzerland by Fred Fowler so I rate B&S and Fowler together.

All the above are comparable. The best resale and the ones that hold their value are of course, LSStarrett. Most LSS precision tools can be resold for very little loss.... and they last forever with proper care.

I still have and use in the shop, the LSS Last Word Indicator set and the 0-1 mike my dad gave me when I started my apprentiship at Standard Products in 1968. They are just as accurate now as they were then.

Good tools will outlast you....always.
 
Riley....

In order of revelance and quality, price notwithstanding....

L.S. Starrett, Athol Mass.
Mitutoyo, Osaka, Japan
Brown and Sharp
Fred Fowler

If I were you, I'd get a 6" pair (don't know why they call them pairs but they do, maybe because they have a fixed and moveable jaw) of LSS dial calipers in brushed stainless. I believe you can get them for around 110 bucks. Those are my go to calipers in the shop. The rack is covered, the dial is settable for absolute repetitive measurements (like you want to '0' at a case length and compare subsequent cases.... Plus the rack extends out the back of the caliper body so if you add a depth indicating base, the caliper becomes a dial depth micrometer. I usr that all the time too. Want to check your set primer depth? Use the depth gage acessory.

I like analog calipers and mikes. I have digital, direct read but I like the analog dial ones better but thats my preference.

Second choice would be Mititoyo. I remember when Mititoyo was first imported to this country back in the mid 60's. We all laughed at the Japanese junk and it was a bit crude, but with the advent of ISO standards and stringent QC. Mititoyo is just as good as LSS or B&S today.

Third would be Brown and Sharp. Lots of B&S precision tools today are made in Switzerland by Fred Fowler so I rate B&S and Fowler together.

All the above are comparable. The best resale and the ones that hold their value are of course, LSStarrett. Most LSS precision tools can be resold for very little loss.... and they last forever with proper care.

I still have and use in the shop, the LSS Last Word Indicator set and the 0-1 mike my dad gave me when I started my apprentiship at Standard Products in 1968. They are just as accurate now as they were then.

Good tools will outlast you....always.

SidecarFlip,

I have the mitutoyos now, the rack does come out the back so it can be used as a depth caliper, they can be set absolute with the push of a button. They were $108 from amazon, they are the 6" pair.

Trickymissfit, changing the battery could not be any easier. On the front face of the caliper there is a small black 'bulge' under the word mitutoyo, there is a small tab that slides right out and gives access to the batteries, no tools required and take maybe 10 second to switch them out.

Riley
 
Riley...

Not back, end. Front is the read side back is the backside.

Thats IP54 rated btw. Just means you can splash coolant on them with no adverse effects. You'll need to get the depth base. Not sure if the LSS base fits the Mititoyo but it might. Maybe Gary knows.

I would have told you to get a set of 60 division verniers but thats too complicated for today. Thats for Gary and I to fiddle with......:D

Mititoyo has come a long way from the 'junk' they sold in the mid 60's.

Don't use them for a clamp and don't store them with the jaws completely closed.

Now you need a good 0-1 micrometer and some inside and outside Yankee style calipers....

Fowler makes a nice 0-1 IP54 rated carbide anvil mike that reads inch and metric with 0.0001 resolution. I have one for a shop mike. It was around 50 bucks. Comes with a ball anvil too.

When you are done using your tools, take a lint free rag with a tiny bit of light oil and wipe them carefully and put them away. Fingerprints, even on stainless, will tarnish the finish.
 
..........I hate the Starrett analog calipers (dial type). They're just a pain to reset the zero to the 12 oclock position. The Mitutoyos are the easiest, and you can do it in about a minute. That's one single advantage the digital ones have over the others as you can reset the zero very easilly.........

Gary, thats terrible. I have no issues with mine. Must be you are getting old and shake too much.......:D

I still prefer the verniers but when in a hurry, the analog (dial) or the digital... in that order.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top