Minimalist load development, What next?

BoomFlop

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Oct 16, 2012
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539
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Wisconsin
Then why don’t you shoot it as it is? Nobody has the magic formula.

Is it a new rifle or proven rifle? Has it shot better than .7” groups previously? From my research it don’t get any more consistent or ease of load than a Hammer, hence the cost. You could shoot 100 rounds and not better the group. OR, you could shoot 20 and drop it in half. Won’t know unless you try.

Good luck, I hope you find what you are looking for.

Steve
 

Bob Wright

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Jan 23, 2018
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Litchfield Park, Az.
Load up 5 or 10 and go to your max distance you plan on hunting.
Look at your dope, check speed, and confirm your group size at distance. Your group size should be ~3.75" at 500 yards.
Sounds like you're there except for final sight in before your hunt.
 

Bigeclipse

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Aug 10, 2012
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Then why don’t you shoot it as it is? Nobody has the magic formula.

Is it a new rifle or proven rifle? Has it shot better than .7” groups previously? From my research it don’t get any more consistent or ease of load than a Hammer, hence the cost. You could shoot 100 rounds and not better the group. OR, you could shoot 20 and drop it in half. Won’t know unless you try.

Good luck, I hope you find what you are looking for.

Steve
The previous owner shot .3inch groups with eldm. Unfortunately I do not like eldms for hunting. So unless the previous owner was a liar, in theory it will shoot better.
 

Canhunter35

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The previous owner shot .3inch groups with eldm. Unfortunately I do not like eldms for hunting. So unless the previous owner was a liar, in theory it will shoot better.
.7moa is a 3.5” group at 500...experimenting may yield a better group...may not, up to you to decide if it’s worth it. Something simple like a primer swap may help and if nothing else should help zero the rifle
 

Buzzsaw

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Frisco, Texas
leave it alone or buy another barrel. I see way too many shooters waste barrel life, powder(s), bullets running extensive "ladder" tests.

Your gun shoots good as is

If you are shooting benchrest for one hole groups, just go hunting
 

Wyosam

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Apr 3, 2020
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Wyoming
leave it alone or buy another barrel. I see way too many shooters waste barrel life, powder(s), bullets running extensive "ladder" tests.

Your gun shoots good as is

If you are shooting benchrest for one hole groups, just go hunting
Yep, you’re done With your hunting load. If you want to work up a one hole round for the challenge/experience, do it with cheaper bullets. Nearly every rifle I own has a hammer load that is sub MOA (some more sub than others). All of the ones that go to the range for anything more than a zero verify also have an ELDm (or other cheaper bullet) load for beating steal or shooting tiny groups.
 

7070yshot

Formerly 'LibertyHillPrecision'
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May 26, 2020
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Liberty Hill, TX
All,

I have been starting to do load development on my 28Nosler. I am trying to keep the amount of components that I burn to a minimum since I am using very expensive bullets (hammers), brass, and also for barrel life considerations. The rifle will strictly be used for hunting inside 500 yards so I really do not need the ultra tightest groups. As of right now I have done the 10 shot Satterlee velocity node test with my magnetospeed. I found two nodes so I loaded a few rounds at both nodes and tried some groups. The upper node is giving me a consistent .7MOA group thus far which is pretty much all I need. That being said, I don't mind burning a few more rounds to see if I can tighten it a bit more. Should I try changing seating depth, say .010 on both sides of the current seating depth to see if things get a bit tighter? Should I do a full blown Berger style seating depth test where you try .010 off, .050 off, .090 off and finally .130 off? What are your thoughts? FYI, if I was at an honest .5MOA id not even bother so really just trying to see if I can tighten it up that little bit more. Thanks!
Figure out where the velocity settles by loading 10-12 rounds with incremental increasing powder charger until you find max where your rifle starts to show pressure. Graph out the velocity measurements and you will see a steady climb then a plateau. That plateau is your velocity/accuracy band. Load another 12-15 rounds with that band using 3 each of same load. Don’t shoot repeatedly! Shoot cold bore shots only. Shot cold bore groups. Find smallest group with lowest ES/SD’s that’s the one you want to tweak. Then worry about the other stuff like distance from lands, primer depth, neck tension.
sorry accuracy and precision are not always cheap.
However if your rifle shoots subMOA with factory ammo don’t bother reloading.
1MOA at 500y is a 5in group. Good enough kill zone. Should even handle most neck shots on animals. Just my 2cents
 

nicholasjohn

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Feb 12, 2019
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654
Location
Vancouver, WA
I moved further off on most a couple rifles shot great at 20 thou off the rest are 30 thou to 50 thou off I did try closer than 20 thou but it changed nothing on the two rifles
This is exactly what Steve told me to do - start long ( max magazine length, but not closer than 20 thousandths off the lands ) and work back in only one direction with changes to the loaded length. He said that it may or may not make a difference in accuracy, but working in only one direction was emphasized. I do it that way anyhow, and have been doing so for years. Everybody says that no monolithic bullets work well jammed into the rifling, and even with the relieved bearing surface, apparently these are no different. Avoiding pressure spikes is the thing with this method. If you do all your pressure testing with the longest loads, you won't get big surprise by moving the bullets closer to the rifling.
 

Skimbleshanks

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Jan 8, 2010
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330
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Willamette Vally
It's a 28 Nosler. It's a hot rod. Big guns cost big money to shoot much. If you really need or want better that the .7 moa you are getting its going to cost something. Bullets and barrel life being the big ones. Multiple thousands in rifle and optics try not to worry too much about the $3 brass. The Berger style seating depth test has proven fruitful for me more often than not though I've never shot Hammer bullets. Its where I would go next.
 

skipglo

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Jan 23, 2015
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1,051
Location
Alberta
All,

I have been starting to do load development on my 28Nosler. I am trying to keep the amount of components that I burn to a minimum since I am using very expensive bullets (hammers), brass, and also for barrel life considerations. The rifle will strictly be used for hunting inside 500 yards so I really do not need the ultra tightest groups. As of right now I have done the 10 shot Satterlee velocity node test with my magnetospeed. I found two nodes so I loaded a few rounds at both nodes and tried some groups. The upper node is giving me a consistent .7MOA group thus far which is pretty much all I need. That being said, I don't mind burning a few more rounds to see if I can tighten it a bit more. Should I try changing seating depth, say .010 on both sides of the current seating depth to see if things get a bit tighter? Should I do a full blown Berger style seating depth test where you try .010 off, .050 off, .090 off and finally .130 off? What are your thoughts? FYI, if I was at an honest .5MOA id not even bother so really just trying to see if I can tighten it up that little bit more. Thanks!
I trust your .70 is at 100. I'd shoot it at 300 and see if it's consistent there or what happens before playing with seating. Are you and the gun capable of better,
 
Joined
May 12, 2019
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Location
Adams County, PA
Since you desire to conserve expensive components, consider also how well you are able to hold on a game animal under field conditions. If you were able to reduce your group size from 0.7 MOA to 0.5 MOA, the difference would be about 1" at 500 yards. Can you hold that well?
 

Starlite

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Dec 8, 2019
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243
Location
New Brunswick Canada
I think you're good at 0.7 MOA. At this point I'd be looking at first round point of impact.

Depending on which primer you're using I might check that.
I agree a good quality magnum primer like federal premium could lower your SD ( and likely MOA ). So if the OP hasn’t trialled that then he should. CCI magnum primers are a good choice as well. However, I think money best spent should be in powder and brass. In my experience they are the top 2 of the 4 components of a cartridge.
Also as some have stated. .700” MOA is good enough for LR Hunting. But I do understand the 🥵 of reloading to fine the unicorn 🦄 load. 😉. Just my 2c.
 

Starlite

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Messages
243
Location
New Brunswick Canada
I trust your .70 is at 100. I'd shoot it at 300 and see if it's consistent there or what happens before playing with seating. Are you and the gun capable of better,
Agree. Perhaps out to 600 if you can... and plan to shoot this far. In reality though I’d only do this once your SD is 10 or under. (With a good quality device such as LabRadar). Then shoot at least three 7rds groups; count your shots that land within your 1MOA. THIS is a great proofing method.
just my 2c.
 

Bigeclipse

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Aug 10, 2012
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1,789
I trust your .70 is at 100. I'd shoot it at 300 and see if it's consistent there or what happens before playing with seating. Are you and the gun capable of better,
I shoot my 6.5prc well to 600 so I’m not worried about me. The previous owner of the gun had a load worked up shooting .3moa out to 300 with eldm so I was hoping I could find a decent load with hammer hunters.
 

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