I agree about Chinese stuff, I try not to buy it when possible like we all should. Theres a used bridgeport around the corner but im not interested in feeding this one three phase, just looking for a smaller 110/220 unit if theres one that's worth using. I own a lot and know a lot about shop carpentry tools but shopping metal working tools is new to me, im not very familiar with the different manufacturers. Unfortunately I don't know of a dealer anywhere near me and even if I did id rather hear it from you guys than the guy hustling for a commission. Im good with new or used, just don't want to unknowingly buy junk.
I take it you have 220 / 1. No problem. I don't have 220/3 in my shop either and I run a number of machines including a couple frequency controlled 3 phase machine tools.
Just get yourself a static converter which is nothing more than a set of capacitors that excite the T3 leg of the windings. How I started out. Once I got into frequency controlled 3 phase machines, I went with a Gerhardt-Werner rotary converter and I stack my motors to achieve enough amperage to run the big stuff. IOW, 2 Bridgeports idling equals a big surface grinder or the Servo Shift.
Myself, I wouldn't buy anything but a Bridgeport and they are very rebuildable too, unlike the Chinese machines. I have exactly one Chinese machine, a Dashin Prince 16 x 36 toolroom lathe that I picked up at a high school auction for 500 bucks. been a good machine but don't compare with my LeBlond Servo Shift which is actually the ultimate gunsmithing lathe.
Unless a casting is cracked, there is nothing on a Bridgeport that isn't rebuildable and parts are always available.
I live in Michigan and the first one I bought was in North East Ohio and I found it on Flea-Bay. Took my 1 ton truck and picked it up. Bridgeport's come apart easily and all you need is one of those Harbor Freight gantry engine hoists to move one.
4 square head cap screws and the entire upper ram and head come off the base and you can pull the head from the turret by removing the 4 securing hex bolts that allow the head to rotate. The base, knee and table stay together, you run the table up against the base with the knee lowered all the way.
Only thing about buying one used is checking the Spindle TIR with a dial indicator. Owners have a bad habit of not keeping the head bearings lubed even though there are oil cups on the headstock. Checking the TIR is simply a matter of using a dial indicator affixed to the column and extending the quill and rotating the spindle while applying lateral pressure to it. Any free play will show on the dial. 0.001 is acceptable but no more. Tables have ball screws in bronze bushings, all replaceable and adjustable for slop. Again, 20 thousands rotational play is acceptable.
The only oriental mill even comparable to a B'port is a Lagun or a Domestic Wells Index, but both are pretty rare.
I've set all the machines in my shop, myself. The lightest are the B'ports and the heaviest is my 6-18 Toolroom surface grinder with the Servo-Shift just a couple hundred pounds lighter. The Toolroom grinder weighs 7,000 pounds. I've used black iron pipe and come along's to roll them in and Machinist jacks to get them up to place anti-vibration levelling pads underneath.
If Charles Atlas can move a rail car, I can move any machine with some pipe and come along's.
Problem you'll have is not getting the machine initially but buying the tooling and knowing how to use it correctly. Good tooling and fixturing can be absurdly expensive and cheap tooling is just that, cheap. You can find good deals on Flea Bay if you look but beware of the cheapo Chinese stuff. It don't last and is probably not accurate.
I suggest getting a recent copy of Machinery Handbook and doing some serious reading. Metal is lots different than wood, lots different.
I had a jump on things in as much as I'm a retired toolmaker but compared to state of the art tools today, I'm in the cave man age.
