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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Mildot vs MOA vs Rapid Z
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<blockquote data-quote="HAMMERHAND" data-source="post: 718094" data-attributes="member: 33066"><p>There's really no need for your cartridge to match the trajectory curve of the rapid-z reticle. Every bullet follows a parabolic curve of some description when it leaves your barrel. On 14X your rapid Z scope is at the calibration standard for the reticle. IF the information is solid that you are putting into the calculator on the website (velocity from a CHRONO), atmospheric conditions, altitude, BC, etc. then you can generate a dope card that will get you banging 18 inches square of steel 1st shot to 800 yards if your input info is legit, and your gun is capable of that kind of accuracy. Lots of things come into play with the rapid Z reticle and you have to put in the time. You MUST get your scope height correct in reference to the center of the bore, you MUST print your calibration group exactly where it says to at the yardage you're sighting in and on level ground. ALSO it is important that you adhere to a shoot-to range, meaning that uphill and downhill shots require less yardage. I find I can hit an average size pumpkin with 1 shot at each 100 yard increment from 300-600 yards with a single shot after calibration, and 18" plate steel from 600-800 with the same single shot. The problem with the longer shots say 600 and beyond is that the reticle is on the larger side so the center crosshairs actually cover up an average pumpkin and the entire vital zone of a pronghorn antelope. I find it sketchy for deer at the 700+ range as well. Elk to 800....no problem, but again its not a matter of slapping the thing on your gun and going...the effort has to be put in to work the reticle to its fullest advantage. Not something that many people take the time to do. I love the clarity of the glass, and bought several scopes from Doug @ camera land with no issues.</p><p> </p><p> I'm looking for an MOA type reticle to use with a G7 rangefinder, but would really like one in the FFP that didn't get too big to use to 1,000 yards so I can shoot and go. I really like the idea of the nightforce scope and the NP-R1, however you need to have it set at 11 or 22 power to take advantage of MOA, or create some type of intermediate dope card for another magnification, or dial. My shooting situations really require very quick shooting most of the time (where dialing up would mean no-shot, no-animal). I had thought about hollands ART reticles, Sightron SIII, Vortex, March, Valdada, etc. but have zero experience with any of them, and honestly most are out of my price league. Honestly I know there has to be a scope that delivers the goods for less than 2 grand, however nobody seems to highly recommend one.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HAMMERHAND, post: 718094, member: 33066"] There's really no need for your cartridge to match the trajectory curve of the rapid-z reticle. Every bullet follows a parabolic curve of some description when it leaves your barrel. On 14X your rapid Z scope is at the calibration standard for the reticle. IF the information is solid that you are putting into the calculator on the website (velocity from a CHRONO), atmospheric conditions, altitude, BC, etc. then you can generate a dope card that will get you banging 18 inches square of steel 1st shot to 800 yards if your input info is legit, and your gun is capable of that kind of accuracy. Lots of things come into play with the rapid Z reticle and you have to put in the time. You MUST get your scope height correct in reference to the center of the bore, you MUST print your calibration group exactly where it says to at the yardage you're sighting in and on level ground. ALSO it is important that you adhere to a shoot-to range, meaning that uphill and downhill shots require less yardage. I find I can hit an average size pumpkin with 1 shot at each 100 yard increment from 300-600 yards with a single shot after calibration, and 18" plate steel from 600-800 with the same single shot. The problem with the longer shots say 600 and beyond is that the reticle is on the larger side so the center crosshairs actually cover up an average pumpkin and the entire vital zone of a pronghorn antelope. I find it sketchy for deer at the 700+ range as well. Elk to 800....no problem, but again its not a matter of slapping the thing on your gun and going...the effort has to be put in to work the reticle to its fullest advantage. Not something that many people take the time to do. I love the clarity of the glass, and bought several scopes from Doug @ camera land with no issues. I'm looking for an MOA type reticle to use with a G7 rangefinder, but would really like one in the FFP that didn't get too big to use to 1,000 yards so I can shoot and go. I really like the idea of the nightforce scope and the NP-R1, however you need to have it set at 11 or 22 power to take advantage of MOA, or create some type of intermediate dope card for another magnification, or dial. My shooting situations really require very quick shooting most of the time (where dialing up would mean no-shot, no-animal). I had thought about hollands ART reticles, Sightron SIII, Vortex, March, Valdada, etc. but have zero experience with any of them, and honestly most are out of my price league. Honestly I know there has to be a scope that delivers the goods for less than 2 grand, however nobody seems to highly recommend one. [/QUOTE]
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Mildot vs MOA vs Rapid Z
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