Kevin Cram
Well-Known Member
I'm now selling meplat trimmers, similar to Tooley's trimmer but with a twist. If any of you have used his tool you may know that it leaves a burr inside the hollow point of the bullet. I have designed a tool that trims the meplat and then removes the burr. I wish I had some pics. I should in a couple of days if any one is interested. I've posted this on Benchrest.com and got a very good response and was suggested to put it on here. This is a detailed description of how my tool is used.
My tool is made completely of 303 stainless, I mostly shoot .30cal smk's and as far as oal goes I usually don't get more than .003 difference and thats rare if I get that much. The bullet is stopped .001 before its ogive. ( .307 dia.) So as for how well the oal holds depends on the variance of the ogive to base dimmension. I use a tool similar to a stoney point tool with a .30 cal. bullet insert held in my calipers before I trim the bullets, to seperate any major variances. I use a four flute center cutting endmill, then with the bullet still in the fixture I remove the endmill and designed another tool to go in the same way as a endmill but it deburrs the hollow point. You can make the hollow point as big or as deep as you like, or just enough to remove the burr, depending on where you set your stops. The bullet fits a little tight in the fixture and it takes a lite wiggle to remove it. But the tight fit ensures the bullet is held securely and centered. There is occasionaly a light ring around the bullet, there is NO CUT just a mark where the bullet stopped. I use some 0000 steel wool lightly on the entire bullet to remove line( not always necessary) then I clean bullet in a rubbing alcohol bath to remove any dirt and grime. And it's ready to shoot. I don't how it effects th B.C. of the bullet but as far as I have tested I have shot some amazing groups with them. Hope this gives you a better idea of how the tool works, any other questions feel free to e-mail me.
My tool is made completely of 303 stainless, I mostly shoot .30cal smk's and as far as oal goes I usually don't get more than .003 difference and thats rare if I get that much. The bullet is stopped .001 before its ogive. ( .307 dia.) So as for how well the oal holds depends on the variance of the ogive to base dimmension. I use a tool similar to a stoney point tool with a .30 cal. bullet insert held in my calipers before I trim the bullets, to seperate any major variances. I use a four flute center cutting endmill, then with the bullet still in the fixture I remove the endmill and designed another tool to go in the same way as a endmill but it deburrs the hollow point. You can make the hollow point as big or as deep as you like, or just enough to remove the burr, depending on where you set your stops. The bullet fits a little tight in the fixture and it takes a lite wiggle to remove it. But the tight fit ensures the bullet is held securely and centered. There is occasionaly a light ring around the bullet, there is NO CUT just a mark where the bullet stopped. I use some 0000 steel wool lightly on the entire bullet to remove line( not always necessary) then I clean bullet in a rubbing alcohol bath to remove any dirt and grime. And it's ready to shoot. I don't how it effects th B.C. of the bullet but as far as I have tested I have shot some amazing groups with them. Hope this gives you a better idea of how the tool works, any other questions feel free to e-mail me.
