Mauser extractor cut

Coldfinger

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
1,137
Location
NY
If you have a vice, heat sink, heat paste and torches you can bend and tweak the bolt. Having a new handle welded on is cosmetically pleasing to the eye. I drilled and tapped bent the bolt installed a bold trigger installed a short chambered barrel and finish reamed the chamber to .308 with a T Handle. Crude and elementary to some I’m sure but I killed numerous deer and woodchucks with it. The barrel was a midway discount Adams and Bennet for the handsome sum of around $40. Rifle shoots 3/4” all day long. Here 22 years later I still have it in the safe! Anyone can do it if they’re willing to learn.
I am wanting to do as much of the work as possible. Its more for the experience of doing it myself than anything else. I do have a jig and a mill/dril
 

tobnpr

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 30, 2013
Messages
346
Well if you want a scope, you either have to be able to drill and tap your self (money for a drill jig & drill press), have a mill and the know-how to do it, or take it to someone that can do it. Just saying.
Very little of the fixture tooling that used to be available for Mausers is manufactured anymore due to lack of demand.
The cheap milsurp market has dried up, and there's relatively little demand for "sporterizing" rifles still in original condition.

The last Mauser I worked on was several years ago, took two months to get the bolt handle from Dakota Arms...

The barrel work is one thing- the "rest"- D&T of the receiver (the old Wheeler jigs for DIY were discontinued years ago), the welding of a new bolt handle, and conversion to a side-swing safety are not for the inexperienced- take/send it to a riflesmith.

You need to carefully inspect any receiver you intend to rebarrel carefully- especially the lug abutments. The actions are case hardened and not through-hardened. If the action saw heavy use, the abutments may show more setback than is acceptable.
 

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