I think what you're doing absolutely makes a difference, once I started paying attention to shoulder bump my groups got better, replaced lee dies with Redding and Forster and groups got better, bought runout gauge and figured out how to make straighter ammo with annealing and groups got better, got mandrels and ammo is even straighter and groups got better, I never use a FL sizing die anymore, my left alone factory savage varminter shot it's first .25 group couple weeks ago, I remember being on cloud nine if I got a .75 group out of it once in a while, I always say everything makes a difference and it adds up, gotta be open to trying things, it always seems like there's some improvement you can make when reloading, lots of things to try and once you find the right round the challenge is to make it the same Everytime, hell I might try annealing last, just kidding but congratulations on your match's, that's awesome.
Mandrel lube
- Thread starter 6pakzak
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rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
It's just nice to know that the effort has benefits in the end result....I do vibrate my bullets in hbn, and do coat the inside of the necks with hbn, like the graphite method , it does stop the cold weld problem...rsbhunter
I've tried just about everything I could think of to gain a competitive advantage in Fclass. I settled on NEO Lube#2 for ease and repeatability.
The absolute best is regular Johnson's paste wax. It's inert, melts to the touch and is simple to apply with a q-tip.
You can load bullets seated long, come back three years later and re-seat. They will be smooth as butter and no cold welding.
Sounds crazy but it works.
The absolute best is regular Johnson's paste wax. It's inert, melts to the touch and is simple to apply with a q-tip.
You can load bullets seated long, come back three years later and re-seat. They will be smooth as butter and no cold welding.
Sounds crazy but it works.
milboltnut
Well-Known Member
I just learned how to apply a wax lube......... dab a bit on the index finger, and rotate your thumb in a rotational motion to spread it around until it's spread out completely on index and middle finger on the first knuckle joint, then apply it on the case. An even amount is now applied.
new2mud
Well-Known Member
21st Century has nitrided mandrels. Even slicker than the old TiN coatings. No lube needed. Slick as snot!
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milboltnut
Well-Known Member
how many of you guys heard about Lee case lube being used to draw cartridge cases at the manufacture?
We're talking inside of neck unless you got super skinny fingers, lol
milboltnut
Well-Known Member
sorry man !
NP gave me a laugh too
WildRose
Well-Known Member
When I spray my cases I do it with them standing up on a tray and I hold the can at about a 45deg angle to them. It gives the necks just enough lube and as you say, there's never a concern about it fouling the powder or corrosion.
I am giving some serious consideration though to breaking out my old dry roller tumbler and giving the corn cob and carnauba was method a try for both bullets and brass just to see how well it works.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Sinclair also offers them with TIN coating now as well which should pretty well eliminate most problems.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Interesting but I don't think I'd trust it on my reloading gear.
milboltnut
Well-Known Member
guess I was excited I finally learned how to apply it right!
If you apply it once and do a bunch before applying again just makes me think it's gonna size slightly different as the lube wears off, I know it's a small difference but if I think keeping everything consistent matters
