Magnum primers vs standard large rifle primers.

dale1386

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
91
Location
WNC
I've got some very old CCI large rifle primers that i've been using through the years to load for my old savage 99 300 savage and i'm getting one every once in a while that just won't fire and it's not the firing pin spring its got a good strike on the primer and i've got several boxes of magnum large rifle primers my 270 wsm and i was wandering if it was dangerous to use a magnum primer for my 300 savage load.
 
I've got some very old CCI large rifle primers that i've been using through the years to load for my old savage 99 300 savage and i'm getting one every once in a while that just won't fire and it's not the firing pin spring its got a good strike on the primer and i've got several boxes of magnum large rifle primers my 270 wsm and i was wandering if it was dangerous to use a magnum primer for my 300 savage load.
No but you should back off on the powder charge and work back up I would back down too the starting load or minimum load and work back up too your max charge it could max out a gr or more than the max load with standard LR Primers BE CAREFUL
 
CCI mag primers are very mild. I develop all hunting loads that use less than 70 grains of powder with them. Anything over 70 grains gets a Fed 215. Depending on how close to max load you are would dictate to me whether I backed the load off or not. As long as I was showing no pressure signs and was at least a couple of grains off published max, I would just swap them. I have NEVER seen a primer change result in dangerous pressure, but changing primers definitely will affect pressure most of the time. I never load hunting rounds to the ragged edge. Maximum safety says back off 10% and work back up, I tired it the other way just to see.
 
I use CCI 250s in similar sized cartridges like my 250 savage and my 308. Its perfectly safe as long as you back off on your powder charge and work up again as it could raise pressures. I had ignition issuses with standard large rifle primers in the cold and with some ball powders, so I use magnum primers in eveything I own.
 
The advice above to use milder magnum primers with smaller powder charges and to go big with big charges is a good general principle.

For me, my light magnum primers are the Remington 9.5Magnums. I was able to pick up 500 hundred last year. I use them for 308 Win and 270 Win. For large charges I use either Fed215(Match if available) or WinchesterLargeRifleMagnum. These have worked well in 416Rigby and 500 Accurate Reloading (a 2.65" case with Rigby case head). The 416 and 500 use charges a little over 100grains. For in-between like 338WM and 375Ruger, with charges ranging from 66 to 78 and 80 to 90 grains, I use whichever magnum primers I have the most of.

To be honest, I would use any magnum primer with any of the above if push came to shove.
 
I would not change a thing. Load some up, test fire a group, check pressure signs and use them. Unless you are just one powder kernal from blowing primers with your standard primers you wont have any major issues. Load and let em rip chip.
 
I believe that Ball powders require a little more heat or flame burst to ignite them and are harder to ignite than extruded powders. If ammo makers buy large quantities of ball or extruded powders and reloaders buy ball or extruded powders it makes sense to me that all magnum primers must meet a certain threshold of capability to ignite either type of powder.
 
I had some primers start to misfire like that and now I store all my primers in the house in sealed ammo cans with desiccant. Only pulling a few hundred out to keep on the bench when I'm loading. My issue was they where being stored in the garage with no humidity control I'm sure that is what caused the issue.
 
Interesting. Moved all my primers indoors , sealed containers as well after some clickers this summer Using CCI LR primers and Stabil powder. Since then no more clickers.
 
Top