Magneto speed sporter

[Mcarso1]

after long deliberation I decided to buy one for load development. I am a green horn here so forgive me but any tips on using it and experience would be great. Shooting 6.5x284 143gr ELDX, retumbo, large rifle primers and .010 off the lands. Currently at 55gr and gonna work up to pressure signs then load backwards .2 gr at a time and chronograph to find node then work on seating depth. Would you guys do the same or something different, also this is all being done on brand new Lapua brass. Should I do the ladder on once fired brass? Thanks guys

 

[Trnelson]

after long deliberation I decided to buy one for load development. I am a green horn here so forgive me but any tips on using it and experience would be great. Shooting 6.5x284 143gr ELDX, retumbo, large rifle primers and .010 off the lands. Currently at 55gr and gonna work up to pressure signs then load backwards .2 gr at a time and chronograph to find node then work on seating depth. Would you guys do the same or something different, also this is all being done on brand new Lapua brass. Should I do the ladder on once fired brass? Thanks guys

I have the V3, I just put it on and leave it on for the whole load development session. It will effect POI slightly, but not grouping. Also, it will allow you to track how velocity changes as you work up.
You must be looking for the upper node, and you aren't likely too far away from a max load. I haven't had any of my rigs safely take much more than 57g without a hitch.
Also new brass will mask the actual first pressure signs as it uses a portion of the pressure to obturate the brass to fire form to your chamber. I like to do testing for maximum safe pressure with once fired brass.
Seating depths won't change much at all going from new brass to once fired. Also, you may want to check out how different primers work in your rig to fire form some more brass. The rest of the brass I usually just fire form with a cheap bullet and a known to be safe load. That way everything is on equal footing moving forward.
Maybe Grey fox will see this thread and chime in, he's shot a bunch more 6.5/284 with retumbo than I have. Have fun

 

[bigedp51]

I have the Magneto Speed Sporter.
Always have spare batteries, the readings are sensitive to battery voltage.
Trust me, one day at the range I thought I forgot to put enough powder in my .223 reloads.

 

[bigedp51]

Sorry double posting, I put new batteries in my pacemaker.

 

[jasonco]

1. Don't shoot it.
2. Keep track of your batt voltage. When it gets to around 5V can get a little funny.
3. Check the bayonet every so often to make sure it's tight. When loose, makes for wandering groups.
4. Keep track of the rubber spacers. Couple of barrels, I can't use them (heavy barrel = too far away from the bore)
5. If you don't have the phone app and dongle, you should consider getting them?! Makes life easier.
6. Most common error is Err 2. baynet too far from the bore, no shot reading.
7. They're affordable enough to have 2, instead of changing back and forth to a different rifle, maximizing your time.

 

[Csafisher]

It actually can affect group size..... depends on the rifle. For the price, I think it's hard to beat

 

[bob4]

Shot yesterday with my V-2 on a 300wm. 8 rounds in a bug hole. Took it off and the last three rounds opened a bit. Could be pilot error. Strap it on tight. Should be fine.

 

[NEMTHunter]

Shot yesterday with my V-2 on a 300wm. 8 rounds in a bug hole. Took it off and the last three rounds opened a bit. Could be pilot error. Strap it on tight. Should be fine.

Could be pilot error. Could also be the extra weight tamed the barrel harmonics down and that caused the tighter groups.

 

[JimmyCP]

Got the v3 4 months ago. Preference for me was to archive each group so it was easier for me to add the grains per group and filter out everything in excel on the computer.
Just did a load with retumbo for 6.5 x284 for a kid on a youth elk hunt in AZ. Waiting on more powder to try h1000 to see how far I can push it.
H4831 wasn't getting the velocity where I wanted it due to to much over pressure.
She's 11 and was hitting 4inch group at 300 so she's good.
Used win LRM primers Norm turned brass 2 thou neck tension .20 lands horn sst 140grn 57.5 grn retumbo. 2940 fps average 8fps es.
Any higher es went crazy and started looking like a black powder rifle. No pressure signs but powder was still smoking due to short 24 in barrel. Longer barrel would be better but it's for an 11 year old, more than what she'll need.

 

[JimmyCP]

after long deliberation I decided to buy one for load development. I am a green horn here so forgive me but any tips on using it and experience would be great. Shooting 6.5x284 143gr ELDX, retumbo, large rifle primers and .010 off the lands. Currently at 55gr and gonna work up to pressure signs then load backwards .2 gr at a time and chronograph to find node then work on seating depth. Would you guys do the same or something different, also this is all being done on brand new Lapua brass. Should I do the ladder on once fired brass? Thanks guys

Most eld X I've tried in the savage 6.5 x284 like to be right on the lands. Just as info. I've had good results for target with th Nosler LRH and RL 17 with the 26 in barrel but haven't got a chance to kill with it yet.
I always work up on once fired brass