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lyman trimmer just should i get new one or something else

dgr416

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2003
Messages
657
Location
Madison ,ga
My Lyman trimmer broke yesterday I had it a while .I usually hook it to the drill .Is there a better trimmer this one was kinda sloppy and on short 264 win mag becks not the greatest .I know that yall would know .I need one to hook to drill though because of bad hands !
 
My Lyman trimmer broke yesterday I had it a while .I usually hook it to the drill .Is there a better trimmer this one was kinda sloppy and on short 264 win mag becks not the greatest .I know that yall would know .I need one to hook to drill though because of bad hands !

I have a Lyman trimmer, but only use it for hand gun cases. I went thru a couple others, and finally (under a lot of advice) I bought a Wilson. Cuts square, and is dead accurate. I would not consider any other.
gary
 
Been using one of the Bridgeports in the shop with a piloted countersink for years. 0.001 repeatability.

I like the Hornady unit too (as an alternative for those wothout vertical mills lol).

I also have a WFT which employs a 2 or 4 flute end mill and cuts extremely square with it's ball bearing interchangeable pilots. Works like a pencil sharpener in a cordless drill.
 
I second the Wilson trimmer. I buy them when someone lets them go used.

I now have six which I use exclusively for each caliber I reload. Repeatibility is excellent since I don't need to make any adjustments
 
I have:
WFT
Lyman
Wilson
Forster
A mill

Shoulder datum to neck accuracy of the WFT is very good giving consistent neck length.
Lyman is religated to pistol duty.
Wilson is religated to meplat trimming.
I never used my mill for trimming. LOL.

My goto is the Forster. Case trimming and neck turning. I have the long and original frame/base so I am covered up to CheyTac.
 
As an analyst, I'm curious what the activity-ba$ed co$ting for that proce$$. :D

I can't answer that without violating the users agreement, I'm not a paid advertiser on this site, not that my other 'venue' parallels anything to do with the subject matter discussed on here....

Lets just say I own a number of machine tools that work with metal..... Lathes, surface grinders, CNC machines with vertical and horizontial spindles and welding equipment....

Sort of an expensive hobby.....

(however, you already know about my 'other side'), I just won't allude to it....:D)

This stuff is a hobby for me and gets me outta the house during hunting season and way from my also retired spouse....
 
I have:
WFT
Lyman
Wilson
Forster
A mill

Shoulder datum to neck accuracy of the WFT is very good giving consistent neck length.
Lyman is religated to pistol duty.
Wilson is religated to meplat trimming.
I never used my mill for trimming. LOL.

My goto is the Forster. Case trimming and neck turning. I have the long and original frame/base so I am covered up to CheyTac.

Try it sometime with a piloted countersink. Be sure the mill head is trammed in 2 axis' and you locate the ro be trimmed cartridge exactly in the center of the machine spindle.... You can use a shell locating fixture from Sinclair (the one for use in a drill press) or make your own. I use a modified 5c vertical collet fixture with bored to size emergency 5c collets or you can use a step collet.

Nice thing about using a mill is the repeatability and spindle speed control.
 
I tip my Bergers in a LeBlond Servo Shift with a drawbar collet closer and a 4 flute end mill chucked in the tailstock. With very little practice you can uniform the meplats perfectly.

I'm gonna build a jig to tip Sierra balistic tipped Game Kings. Been noticing the tips on some to be deformed. Thinking alond the lines of a modified Criterion boring head with angled insert cutters to 'clean up' the deformity on the tips.
 
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