Long range shooting the 45-70.

I really prefer smokeless powder to black does it make any difference in the end result. Also could we use the substitute pellets instead of black powder.

Yes. Smokeless and and substitutes can be used in the modern reproductions of the Sharps, Rolling Blocks, etc.with similar results(velocity, accuracy) given the proper choice of powder, and attention to burn rate, pressure, and case fill. Modern, jacketed bullets can be used as well. Keep in mind that some of the older action designs may not have the strength of the modern Marlin, 1876 lever action, and T/C's which can withstand higher pressure handloads as well as the hotter(higher pressure) factory loads in 45/70. I initially used smokeless powders and jacketed bullets in my Shilo Sharps with good results, but soon converted to black powder and lead cast bullets. I found the satisfaction and enjoyment of shooting these rifles as they were originally used was greatly enhanced.
 
I would agree with greyfox.....Reloader7 works pretty well, AA5744 isn't position sensitive so that's kinda nice in the bigger cases. Like Greyfox said just be careful as to what your loading and if your unsure use the "trapdoor" load data.
 
I recently purchased my Pedersoli Sharps and am shooting smokeless. Those of you that are more experienced with the Sharps or trapdoors I would like to know your opinions what you think of shooting powder coated bullets since I am smokeless. I have only shot factory ammo up to this point but just ordered 405 grainers laser cut brand. Should I leave the grease on and shoot them as is or remove grease and powder coat. Thanks for your replies.
 
Im my old pedersoli they didn't work very well, the lube was too hard and that led to lead fouling. The typical lube that you get on factory made bullets isnt all it cracked up to be, the manufacture needs to make it hard enough so it stays on during shipping but its typically too hard for the speed your going to be running. If those bullets and painted are the only two options then I would go with the painted.
 
Know they are not but for now I have ordered books on loading paper patch bullets and black powder loading. Until I become knowledgeable in casting lead bullets I will buy factory stuff. I do want to load heavier as I want to shoot my sharps at least 1000 yards or more. Thank you for your recommendation or your opinion.
 
just fyi....I find loading paper patch easier than loading grease groove bullets. Fill the case thru a 30in droptube with black powder, compress .080-.100 finger seat and taper crimp. For black powder I prefer bore size bullets (.450 bore, ,443-.444 with 2 wraps of 9# onionskin paper), smokeless I have used groove dia with good success. I really like the elliptical bullet design or Money bullet cant go wrong with either
 
just fyi....I find loading paper patch easier than loading grease groove bullets. Fill the case thru a 30in droptube with black powder, compress .080-.100 finger seat and taper crimp. For black powder I prefer bore size bullets (.450 bore, ,443-.444 with 2 wraps of 9# onionskin paper), smokeless I have used groove dia with good success. I really like the elliptical bullet design or Money bullet cant go wrong with either
Really appreciate the advice. I have been reloading for about 40 years but never black powder
 
no problem!! If you need any help just holler....
the book "The Paper Jacket" by Paul Matthews does a pretty good job at explaining things, he deal more with the smokless side in that book tho
 
I have done all my BPCR shooting(45-70, 34" Shilo) using 20:1 cast bullets with SPG, and use a blow tube. For those using paper patch bullets, is there a noticeable difference in the number of shots before accuracy falls off with an uncleaned barrel. Do you use a blow tube? Thanks.
 
For those using paper patch bullets, is there a noticeable difference in the number of shots before accuracy falls off with an uncleaned barrel. Do you use a blow tube?

I'm a wiper 20/80 water/oil. 1 wet, 1dry, chamber swab and that depends on weather... if its really dry out I will use 2 wet. you don't want to get the paper wet so be sure you chamber is dry. As for the number of shots I can only get one.... My bullets are patched to .4495 and I have a .450 bore, so fouling prevents me from shooting more than one, I wipe every shot. I do notice it take a few shots to get things settled down and shooting good.

when I started yrs back I shot GG bullets buying/making my own lubes, trying to find one that would not lead the barrel an still give good fouling control, and after 2yrs, 50+lbs of powder, 15 different kinds of lube I said screw it!!! bought a PP bullet mould and started patching. seriously my gun is cleaned an oiled in no more than 5 patches maybe 8 if its really hot out. no more scrubbing in hot water, no more lead remover. It takes about the same time to make bullets if you figure in all the other stuff you do with GG bullets. and when your all done and tired 5 patches and its in the gun safe til next time.

Also, If your having trouble getting a good group...... grab your rifle by the wrist and use the palm of your hand and strike the barrel work your way to the muzzle..... you should hear a different tone somewhere along the barrel, this is where you rest the rifle when you shoot, even if its 4in from the muzzle.....trust me!!! another thing if you have a 1-18 twits barrel make a box with 2 sheets of paper 9in apart, shoot thru it, it will tell you if your bullet is traveling straight, the lead marks on both papers should be perfect circles.
 
I have been pretty satisfied with the accuracy of my loads, the reason for never having pursued PP bullets. I have not had any leading with the hard cast(20:1) lead/tin. I use a Lyman 457125-.458, 520gr with SPG, sized at .458, GOEX Cartridge under a cardboard disc. I can usually can get 5-10 shots into clay pigeon targets at 200 yards using my blow-tube between shots. I then clean with Vinegar Windex cut 50% with water. A couple of patches, dry patch and done in a couple of minutes. Been using it for about 20 years. Amazing stuff!
 
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I thought it was feeding from the magazine tube that was the issue. Guess I'll see when I start reloading. I've heard so many good reports about this bullet I want to give them a try.

I've tested this out with my Marlin SS giude gun and it won't quite work. Seating it as far in as possible without trimming the case a little short won't give quite enough. The round would feed for me from the mag tube but it would not eject. The nose of the bullet would not clear the front of the ejection port so I have to take the bolt out to remove the round.

I have looked it over and I'm not positive but I think a guy could make it work just by making the ejector pin about .125 shorter so the bullet would come back a little farther before starting to kick out, just clearing the ejection port.
 
I'm a wiper 20/80 water/oil. 1 wet, 1dry, chamber swab and that depends on weather... if its really dry out I will use 2 wet. you don't want to get the paper wet so be sure you chamber is dry. As for the number of shots I can only get one.... My bullets are patched to .4495 and I have a .450 bore, so fouling prevents me from shooting more than one, I wipe every shot. I do notice it take a few shots to get things settled down and shooting good.

when I started yrs back I shot GG bullets buying/making my own lubes, trying to find one that would not lead the barrel an still give good fouling control, and after 2yrs, 50+lbs of powder, 15 different kinds of lube I said screw it!!! bought a PP bullet mould and started patching. seriously my gun is cleaned an oiled in no more than 5 patches maybe 8 if its really hot out. no more scrubbing in hot water, no more lead remover. It takes about the same time to make bullets if you figure in all the other stuff you do with GG bullets. and when your all done and tired 5 patches and its in the gun safe til next time.

Also, If your having trouble getting a good group...... grab your rifle by the wrist and use the palm of your hand and strike the barrel work your way to the muzzle..... you should hear a different tone somewhere along the barrel, this is where you rest the rifle when you shoot, even if its 4in from the muzzle.....trust me!!! another thing if you have a 1-18 twits barrel make a box with 2 sheets of paper 9in apart, shoot thru it, it will tell you if your bullet is traveling straight, the lead marks on both papers should be perfect circles.
I'm a wiper 20/80 water/oil. 1 wet, 1dry, chamber swab and that depends on weather... if its really dry out I will use 2 wet. you don't want to get the paper wet so be sure you chamber is dry. As for the number of shots I can only get one.... My bullets are patched to .4495 and I have a .450 bore, so fouling prevents me from shooting more than one, I wipe every shot. I do notice it take a few shots to get things settled down and shooting good.

when I started yrs back I shot GG bullets buying/making my own lubes, trying to find one that would not lead the barrel an still give good fouling control, and after 2yrs, 50+lbs of powder, 15 different kinds of lube I said screw it!!! bought a PP bullet mould and started patching. seriously my gun is cleaned an oiled in no more than 5 patches maybe 8 if its really hot out. no more scrubbing in hot water, no more lead remover. It takes about the same time to make bullets if you figure in all the other stuff you do with GG bullets. and when your all done and tired 5 patches and its in the gun safe til next time.

Also, If your having trouble getting a good group...... grab your rifle by the wrist and use the palm of your hand and strike the barrel work your way to the muzzle..... you should hear a different tone somewhere along the barrel, this is where you rest the rifle when you shoot, even if its 4in from the muzzle.....trust me!!! another thing if you have a 1-18 twits barrel make a box with 2 sheets of paper 9in apart, shoot thru it, it will tell you if your bullet is traveling straight, the lead marks on both papers should be perfect circles.
 
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