loading 223/556 on Progressive press? Do you work up load first on single stage?

[Dr. Richard Gray]

I am not trying to get the most precise 223/556 ammo but I would like a consistent 1.5MOA load. I know it is possible with my rifle because ive had some factory loads do 1MOA or better. My question to you all is do you work up a load on a single stage press and then move to your progressive press once you find a decent load? Any tips or tricks? Basically my ARs are fun range toys so I don't need extreme accuracy but I also don't want 2inch plus groups at 100 yards either. Thanks!

I have not seen any cost savings in reloading 223/5.56 ammunition for the prices you can get it on sale. If you reload with 55gr it cost as much or more than factory run. When you get into the 70+gr you might see a $0.05 savings, but I don't calculate the brass cleaning or time into my reloads. So if you are shooting a 1.5MOA with 55gr factory loads, I would just go with them. As for using a .223 die for 5.56 reloads, I have doubts. The 5.56 cartridge measures .218. I sometimes think this is what is causing my AR jams. I check all casings after firing for tolerance with a micrometer to make certain that they are in the specs, except the diameter of the shell after resizing. So with the trouble I've had reloading the 5.56, my .223 die will simply remain on the shelf. Now a comment on your question, I'm shooting a 1.0MOA at 200yds with my Ruger 5.56MPR using 55gr ammo. Looking at switching to 70gr after I use these up.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

Ok, so from what you are saying if I start out with my own brass or brass all from same manufacturer and lots then I should be pretty good to go.

yes , definitely .. keeping own brass and same mfg separate as well

but you can still achieve good results (2moa or less) with mixed brass,

i set up one pass through to decap and give inital sizing .. i wish i had the trimmer attachment with the vacuum for the 550 ( one "prep setup only" case head with a universal decapping die in station 1 .. a carbide sizer in station 2 and the trimmer die in another )

then to super swager 600 .

Super Swage 600 (20095): Reloading: Case Preparation Equipment

Super Swage 600 (20095): Reloading: Case Preparation Equipment

www.dillonprecision.com

sorting into 2 buckets .. the ones you feel go into one buckets and the ones you dont feel go into another bucket .. without looking you will have separated nato crimed in one bucket and all 223 stamped into another ..

clean those real good and they will fly through your progressive without any unwanted stops

 

[redneckdan]

I run my bulk practice ammo on a 550. Load workup on a single stage.

I deprime and wet tumble. Moderate loads get bumped every 10x, full power loads every 5x or so; then dry tumble to remove lube. Necks are sized on the dillon, primed, weighed charges dropped through a funnel and bullets seated. Not as fast as dropping from a powder measure but still much faster than single stage.

 

[dblizzard]

I have not seen any cost savings in reloading 223/5.56 ammunition for the prices you can get it on sale. If you reload with 55gr it cost as much or more than factory run. When you get into the 70+gr you might see a $0.05 savings, but I don't calculate the brass cleaning or time into my reloads. So if you are shooting a 1.5MOA with 55gr factory loads, I would just go with them. As for using a .223 die for 5.56 reloads, I have doubts. The 5.56 cartridge measures .218. I sometimes think this is what is causing my AR jams. I check all casings after firing for tolerance with a micrometer to make certain that they are in the specs, except the diameter of the shell after resizing. So with the trouble I've had reloading the 5.56, my .223 die will simply remain on the shelf. Now a comment on your question, I'm shooting a 1.0MOA at 200yds with my Ruger 5.56MPR using 55gr ammo. Looking at switching to 70gr after I use these up.

With pulled bullets 55 & 62 gr, WC844 powder, & locally purchased primers I can plink for LESS that .16 a round. Add 4.2 cents if I need to replace my case with purchased range PU.
18" Wylde barrel, mostly Anderson stuff below that.....holds almost 1 moa at 100yds. The bulk ammo I have seen for sale hovers around 30 cents + shipping, so paying half price lets me enjoy more reloading & shooting. Plinking rounds go through my Dillon 550, but when massaging accurate rounds I use Lapua brass & Co-Ax single stage press.

 

[Quarter Round]

I do a load workup on the single-stage press and never use a maximum load.

 

[MachV]

I do load workup with the 550 but it is manualy indexed and easy to change things up

 

[hunter0528]

its gonna mostly boil down to brass choice , then powder choice .. if you start with mixed range 223, no chance .. i think even if you sort your sorts and then sort those.. maybe

heavy crimping on exactly trimmed lengths , may give hope

anealing will help too

when sizing .. youll have wide difference in sizing force feel .. id presize on the single stage and sort by that feel .. that way when yoi send em through the progressive it will go much smoother

I've got a 1050 and a taper crimp. With the 1050 I always keep the Primer pocket swager in place as a lot of my early brass was surplus military I bought.

The 1050 works great for massive, but If I am loading for CMP matches it's back to the old RCBS and their Charge Master powder measure.