Has anyone did the mental agility drill to figure out additional MOA bullet drops at different power settings on the Boone and Crockett Reticle. I have the large and small triangle values, but with the bullet I am shooting, I cannot get the bullet flying fast enough to closely match the drops. Since this is a SFP scope, I should be able to just turn the power down some more and get the right bullet drop (or close to it) with the current hold marks. Before I start attempting to figure this out, I just thought I would ask to see if anyone has already done this. Thanks

This is not exacty what you are looking for but. Here is what I did. I wanted values at max power w/large delta, and it seems cross hairs where 1-2.2, 2 -4.8,hash 6.3, and post 7.8 drops. Then I went to JBM BALISTICS and found closest drops for my cartridge. Then I field verified. Once that was done,with a 200 yrd zero,I used small hash,also 500 yrd hold for a dail up point for my plain moa cds dial. My reticle is as follows 200 zero,325,425,500,550 post. Then if I want to shot 600 I click 2.6 and use small hash as my aiming point,which I like for size and I dont have to dial as much elev. This is a medium range hunting set up that I use.This set up works well for my 15 yr. old son.I put stickers or card on my different guns as to the set up.

No mental agility needed. Use Exbals "reticle tool" and it will give you POI/MOAs for each bar for your load at any power. Easy to use as long as you know the distances in inches between bars which Leupold will give you if you do not have the paperwork. see this post on a TDS reticle setup. http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/no-click-lr-carry-gun-48155/ BTW, Have run this same setup on a B&C, and other similar reticles. It is spot on If your chrono and BC data is accurate. BH

I think you're gonna have to buy the program sir. It's not just a matter of just looking it up on the internet. I have it also and love it. Here's another option though-- Another way to do it is to adjust magnification (subtension) to true bullet drop by measuring and putting a mark on a 100 yd. target at each range that is close to each dot (i.e. if you're 18" low at 400 yds., that's 4.5 Shooter's MOA--now put a mark 4.5" below your aiming point at 100 yds. Now do the same for all ranges.) Now adjust the power of the scope up or down until the marks line up as close as possible with the stadia lines of the reticle, and mark that power. This could actually be calculated long hand if someone wanted to and then matched up to a ballistics program by calculating the error at all stadia ranges (in MOA) and then calculating the avg. magnification change needed to bring them all into (close) alignment. This would be an advantage to understanding the math behind what's actually going on. There are 2 mathematical concepts that are important for long-range shooting, IMO. The 1st is the inversely proportional relationship between reticle subtension vs. magnification--as magnification DECREASES reticle subtension INCREASES--which is actually what's going on here. The second equation is the most basic form of the mil-ranging formula as it is the math that defines rangefinding and downrange zeroing with any reticle or turret value.